Hankook Dynapro ATM Questions & Answers

Hi I usually put mine at 42 PSI as general use, but it does say 40 PSI on the tire itself but I have never had issue with 42 (been using 42 for about 2 years now) . Off road I’m unsure on sorry.

I was using 37 psi on bitumen to minimise side wall flex and keep up economy but they were wearing more in the centre, so have gone to 35psi as someone else mentioned previously- I use 28 psi on rough outback roads and have been down to 18 psi in soft sand .

Hi Nenad, I can't help you, I probably know just as much about tyre and rim sizes as you do... Maybe google can help?

They will fit on a 7 inch rim but legally and for insurance reasons they have to got on a 8 inch rim some tyre shops will put them on a 7 inch rim if you ask though

Eight inch rim to meet ins standards

35 psi

Had the ATM's on for more than 20k now and still look new (square edges, still deep tread etc), look like they are good value. I got them mainly to cope with the slippery conditions I get even on made roads on the peninsular, mud pine needles etc. They are quiet really haven't noticed the difference to the road tyres my Triton came with. I also tow and spend a fair amount of time off road and the tyres have been terrific. The pressures differ in accordance with what you are doing. I run with 35 all round normally, will take the rear up to 40psi for a load and down to around 18-20psi for off road, mud etc. Hope this helps.

Iv been running them with 38psi on the asphalt,in the mud & thru some shallow water.
Can't see any uneven wear marks appearing
Iv been told to let some air out before driving on the sand - I have not been in sand at this point and if you did you would need to pump them back up before driving on the road again

I got mine around 34-36 psi normal daily driving and the occasional off road, any higher makes the tyre feel hard and makes it too bouncy if no weight is on the car, For more off road sharp rocks and mud i would recommend 28-30 psi, less pressure on the tyre when you hit the rocks and better for grip grappling on tougher terrain.
As for Sand i definitely recommend at the least 25 psi or even lower depending on the condition of the sand, the more tyre is on the sand the better grip you have, higher psi will only cut through the sand like butter = bogged.

Thanks, mostly driving on the road and was pulling a trailer with two quads and they looked low at 35. Ran the backs at 40 and the front at 38. road nice. Prior without the trailer ran them all at 35 and it felt a little spongy. They are new and thought maybe thats the way they road. Thanks for the info.

Not off road but depends how deep////////

Have been on all types of roads in my Santa Fe and never had a problem
The car is not a bush bashing 4wd so it doesn't go in deep mud anyway but normal dirt roads without excessive mud are ok

They did pretty well but i haven't been in hardcore mud situations, as long as you got the psi down it should do pretty well i'd say

I don't know about any official noise rating (didn't even know there was one...), but I personally rate them as quiet at any speed. Plug them into Youtube search and there's plenty of user reviews, including comments re noise.

Hi Butch, I`ve done no towing to date but I can‘t imagine they wouldn't hold up well.

Good question mate - light truck tyres require a different mind set. I can't accurately answer this as I've never used the LT option - as my off road needs have been met with the standard tyre option and I didn't want to put my driving components under any extra load than necessary. I believe higher pressures are the order but I'd ring your tyre bloke for his opinion. Let me know what you work out!

Will do. Right now I'm running same as usual. 38 front and 40 rear. Strange, but it feels like they don't pick up every little bump like the original Dunlop road tyres did

Hi Roland,
I run mine at 40psi too and haven't really noticed any road noise that was enough to be annoying. Like i said i travel allot of k's but don't find them that load, i would also think your pajero would be more sound proof than my old girl.
Sorry i couldn't be of any great help.
Cheers
Scotty

Hey Roland, My Hankook ATM get run at 38/40 psi and they have very little road noise are yours the LT construction? mine are not LT.
sorry mate cant help you there.
Regards Mad

THIS IS A LONG ANSWER, but it helps to understand what is going on in those round, black things keeping you shiny-side-up. Tyres are the most influential single system fitted to a vehicle with respect to handling and safety. Tyres are a product of complex engineering. More accidents are caused by poor quality, poorly maintained or heavily worn tyres than any other mechanical cause. The only factor that has a higher proportion in causing accidents is human beings, the "driver". The "driver" often is responsible for the tyres as well.... Makes you think.

GENERAL INFO.
Most light vehicles, including many utility, SUV and 4WD vehicles run PASSENGER tyres, and the size branding will look like, for example; 275/65R17 or sometimes P275/65R17. I reckon 40 psi UNLADEN is a bit high, unless you drive a wagon, utility, or light truck that is very heavily laden. I would suggest about 32 to 34 psi COLD for most light vehicles when unladen.
LIGHT TRUCK (LT) TYRES are different. They have "LT"as part of the size branding, for example, 275/65R17 LT, and "LIGHT TRUCK" on the sidewalls. Light Truck tyre equipped vehicles are of different construction to regular PASSENGER tyres. Most light truck tyres require 40 to 60 psi to work correctly. My caravan runs LIGHT TRUCK tyres, at 55 psi cold, with a maximum of 65 psi COLD. These tyres don't ride harshly, or wallow or overheat at these pressures, even at 850 to 900 kg load per tyre.

I run 32 to 34 psi COLD in 265/60R18 [114T] Hankook ATM/RF10s fitted to a 2009 Pajero. No problems at these pressures: they handle and ride really nicely, the wear is even across the tread face on all 4 tyres, and unless I throw the truck into round-abouts like a racecar, the edge of the front off-side tyre doesn't get ripped up... With a full load and a nearly 2000kg caravan on the back, I go up to 36 psi cold on the front, 44 psi cold on the rear, ~90 % of maximum pressure (50 psi) which allows for heat soak and pressure build-up... The tyres don't get too warm due to under-inflation, nor do bad roads impact-shock the chassis; too high a pressure can cause impact shock damage to the tyre carcass and to your vehicle. Too low a pressure (like under 18 psi unladen, but always stay above a minimum of 26 psi on road, higher for higher speeds) will allow massively excessive sidewall flexing, and that flexing generates LOTS and LOTS of heat in the sidewalls - which combined with the flexing WILL very quickly destroy the tyres' internal belt structure (rapid fatigue failure), which WILL cause the tyre to fail in a major way structurally, often dramatically and dangerously, as in BANG !! --> LOSS OF CONTROL --> CRASH....

MAKE SURE YOUR PRESSURE GAUGE IS ACCURATE.
Buy a good quality gauge. For example, retailers like ARB have some of the best. Remember, a $5 tyre pressure gauge is better than nothing, but could be placing your life at risk because it may be very inaccurate. A good tyre pressure gauge can be had for between $30 and $50. With care, it will last 30 years or more.

Most fuel service-station pressure gauges are + / - half-a-brick (very inaccurate), because the average "Wally" user drops them, drives over them, etc.. I don't trust most servo pressure gauges - neither should you.
However, the recently introduced stand-alone electronic-display automatic tyre inflators that are installed at some newer fuel service-stations are better than most, as the sensitive measuring parts are inside a strong box bolted to concrete. They are accurate enough - I have found them to be within + or - 1 to 3 psi. If you use one of these, try at least to use the SAME one each time for more accurate results.

A SCIENTIFIC and proven method FOR DETERMINING THE MOST SUITABLE TYRE PRESSURES and to match your tyres to your vehicle is described below [ESTABLISHING COLD STARTING TYRE PRESSURES]: a little time and planning is required - but the result is worth it - and once determined can be used for the life of the vehicle. Changing tyres only requires a small adjustment of tyre pressure to keep similar ride, wear, and handling. This method is for good for regular cars, SUVs, utilities and 4WDs, trailers and caravans. Larger trucks require (much) higher starting pressures. Road Motorbikes usually require lower pressures (~22 to 28 front, 28 to 30 rear) as motorbikes use the tyre sidewall in a completely different way to cars and trucks.

HIGHWAY APPROVED TYRES.
Every road and highway tyre sidewall provides information on tyre pressure, including maximum load (i.e.650kg at 45psi COLD). The USA DOT (Department Of Transport) provides a unique DOT code molded into the sidewall of each make and model of highway approved tyre. Australia and New Zealand accept and adopt the DOT code standard. If this information is not present, the tyre must NEVER be used on-road as the tyre design type has not been tested or certified.

ESTABLISHING A RANGE FOR CORRECT TYRE PRESSURES.
The starting pressure for an unladen light vehicle is normally 70 to 80 % of the maximum pressure printed on the sidewall. To operate a vehicle at or near maximum rated full-load requires pressure closer to, or at, maximum rated tyre pressure. Different models of tyres have different load capacities, even within the same size range. This is directly related to strength of materials used and the technique of construction (the design of internal reinforcing belts).

ESTABLISHING COLD STARTING TYRE PRESSURES. (This technique is based on an industry established method).
On a day when it is not too hot or cold (average sort of day for your local conditions), when your vehicle is empty (OR if always carries the same load, at its normally-loaded state) set a starting COLD pressure at or slightly above that recommended by it's manufacturer, printed on the vehicles Tyre Information Placard. For passenger tyres, that pressure would be around 30 to 32 psi. This is a STARTING COLD pressure.
COLD pressures are when the vehicle has been in the shade, and has not been parked in the hot sun (which will have heated the tyres directly) - AND when the vehicle has not been driven in the last 4 or 5 hours or more.
After setting a STARTING COLD pressure, take a good look at the shape of the tyre where it touches the ground (the ground should preferably be level, flat concrete) - there should be a SLIGHT bulge in the sidewall, no more than 3 or 4 mm outwards. If the bulge is excessive, bring the pressure up 4 psi. Check the bulge in each tyre again. If it is just noticeable, that is fine for now. Drive for 30 km or so to warm up the tyres. Recheck the pressure. It should not have risen more than 2 or 3 psi. Up to 2 psi pressure rise means your pressure is close to ideal for your driving style and load. While you are checking pressures, place the palm of your hand on the tyre sidewall, and on the tread face. The sidewall should NOT be warmer than the tread face. If the sidewall is very much warmer, then your pressures are way too low (at least 6 psi too low). Front wheel drive vehicles tend to heat the front tyres more than rear, rear wheel drive vehicles can heat the rears more than the fronts (especially if you have a heavy right foot). If any one tyre sidewall is warmer than the others, it could be you have the vehicle load unevenly distributed, it could be the road has a high camber or more bends in one direction (like roundabouts) or it could be you drive faster in right bends than left, or vice versa. Most light vehicles driven on the left (like Britain, Australia and New Zealand) place more stress on the front left tyre, due to road camber. You can add about 2 psi to that tyre to compensate.
If tyre sidewalls are warm, and your tyre pressures have risen between 4 psi and 6 psi, then your STARTING COLD pressure was a little too low, it can be bought up 2 psi from STARTING pressure. Do the drive test again the next day.
Once the difference between COLD STARTING pressure and warm tyre pressure for each tyre increases by between about 2 and a maximum of 4 psi, (ie, 32 psi COLD, 35 psi WARM), you have the correct COLD STARTING PRESSURE. they may differ slightly front to rear. Record these pressures. They are the correct pressures for your vehicle and its normal load.

OVER-STEER vs UNDER-STEER.
The COLD pressure for some vehicles may be different for each axle, but generally a vehicle at standard load should have the same cold pressure in the tyres on all axles, as having significantly differing tyre pressures on front and rear axles introduces handling issues. Most manufacturers specify higher pressure in rear tyres than front, as shown on the Tyre Information Placard. If the opposite is applied, for example, 36 psi in the front and 32 psi in the rear, the vehicle will often over-steer (be "loose", or slide out at the back through turns). Even though some people think this is good or "cool", this is not how a road car should behave. Many chassis designs cannot cope with over-steer, and are prone to being twitchy or very unstable and unpredictable in yaw (sideways movement). To a degree, the driver's skill plays a part, but over-steer can be very dangerous, as over-steer is tricky to correct, especially for normal "non-race" drivers. Personally, even though I dislike the sensation of under-steer, a vehicle that is neutral to mild under-steer is more predictable, easier to correct via steering input and throttle modulation, and is far safer. Over-steer can feel "fun" in small degrees of slip angle, but over-steer can easily result in "tank-slappers" or over-correction, loss of control and deadly SIDE-ON and roll-over collisions (which expose the driver and passengers to impacts where no crumple zones are present in doors and roof). Even the very best drivers can be caught by excessive over-steer. The immensely talented and skillfull late Peter Brock was a victim of a badly over-steering chassis that "tank-slapped" him into a large tree. At least if you are unlucky and under-steer into a tree, the front crumple zone, seatbelts and airbags (if fitted) all do their thing to protect the occupants.

As a guide, once ideal Cold pressures are established, adding 2 to 6 psi will make the ride firmer, the handling more responsive. Reducing the ideal COLD pressure about 2 to 4 psi increases comfort, at the penalty of increased tyre wear, higher fuel consumption, and reduction in the capacity of the chassis to respond to sudden steering inputs and changes of direction - the infamous "wet sponge" or "fat cow" syndrome....

Gday yeah they asked me whether i wanted the writing inside or out. I chose out but think it might have looked better not showing! Great tyres though.

my Prado tyres are 265/65 17inch & I run 40psi in them.

This is a bit of a personal choice, depending on vehicle . In hot weather it's better to have slightly higher pressures as the tyres expand. I keep mine at about 38 in the winter, 40 when it's hotter.

That depends on what you are doing. If you are on the road, I would be using 40-42 lb in the rear and 40 in the front. I have found that combo works well when I am towing my camper trailer.

I have an NW Pajero running the 17" Hankook Dynapro ATM's; I haven't towed my camper trailer with these yet but I have towed a tonne in a trailer, the side wall in these tyres is much stronger than the OEM tyres and puts a lot less stress on the suspension. Feels more stable then the Yokohama's too. Can't give an accurate assessment on fuel consumption towing but I use about 0.5L/100km more than I did with the HT Yokohama's in normal usage.

Sorry, I didn't give you any feedback as to my satisfaction; simply, very impressed. For the money I would be surprised if you could find a better tyre, it has made a huge difference to the way my car sits on the road, how It handles loads (including the weight of a steel bulbar on the front end) and it has been great off road do far.

Thank you Raymond for your comments. Just had 4 Hankooks fitted today after returning my Coopers for warranty claim as I only got 30,000 after 18 months use.

I have been running my Hankook Dynapro ATM's at 40 psi all round; I think there is less noise at lower speeds with the higher pressure and I think it handles better at these pressures. I can't comment too much on wear as I have only done just over 2000km so far; I can't say I can see any signs of wear at this stage though. I have used the tyres on the beach, some scrub and in paddocks; have been down to 12 psi on really soft sand on the beach.
Overall, very impressed with the tyres.