Mitsubishi Express 1986-2005 Questions & Answers

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Reco's are about $2k. A bit more if they insist on changing radiator or no warranty. If you go this road, get your own high capacity radiator ($115 on ebay/44mm thickness incl delivery) as engine reco guys charge ~$200 and give you only a standard radiator which struggle with aircon after the first 12 months.
Don't let anyone talk you into a heavy duty clutch either (if manual). Breaks brackets and tendons! If assembled with quality components, like King Bros, you get similar engine life to Nissan/Toyota out of the same block.
Reco motors are better value than low mileage imports. Rings and lifters are superior quality compared to OEM Mitsi engines which are made in the same factory as Hyundai engines so the recos last a lot longer before blowing smoke (oil rings) and making tappet noise (lash adjusters).

Just had a quick look on ebay for a 2nd hand 4G63 engine.
One in good shape that has not been left out in the weather to fill up with rainwater is ~$1,200 incl delivery. Probably cost another $500 to fit.
I'm getting a 4G64 (2.4L) rebuilt in a couple of weeks. Because they are cast iron blocks this is a safe bet. Probably won't even need a rebore. I'm keeping my radiator/clutch/leads because I have replaced all within the last 12 months and I like the way it's running with a big radiator and featherweight clutch so this brings down the cost a bit. Normally a reco is ~$2,200 fitted but because I'm keeping radiator etc I won't be up for a clutch kit so for about the same cost as buying a 2nd hand engine from wrecker and getting it fitted I'll have something with new timing belt, water pump, balance shaft bearings, oil seals (those seals in the timing belt cover can leak after a while) and new pistons, rings, bearings & valve adjusters and they will all be quality aftermarket stuff.
You might want to consider whether it's worth the risk to buy 2nd hand. 4G63 & 4G64. Reco kits are pretty much same price. For the same amount of time in the shop (1 wk) you can come out with a reco motor that's better than the original for the same cost and time of fitting an unknown 2nd hand motor.

Not sure.
My lighter never worked from day 1. Ended up replacing/rewiring the whole thing. Try Alan. He has more electronic gadgets on his L3 than the Jaycar Winnebago!
Primary fusebox near accelerator pedal (the one you found). Circuits share common fuses such as horn & indicators. Radio and lighter on same circuit? Probably. If you had a separate fuse for every lamp and accessory or electronic device you would end up with about 3 fuse boxes, each one with about 40 fuses, like you would find in a Ford Territory or similar.

Legend thanks mate I’ll give Allan a buzz

Beside driver's seat in between seat and handbrake.
Sit in driver's seat and without looking, put your left hand down and slightly back and hey presto! You've found it.

Screw the idle mixture screw all the way in to crush whatever dirt is in there then back out 1 1/4 turns. If that doesn't work it's a carbie breakdown but sometimes you can be lucky. Removing the idle mixture needle all the way and pumping with compressed air would be the go but you need to have the right tools for the job - small air trigger nozzle with rubber tip.

30A fusible link? Supacheap.

Dear P*****d off,
You've purchased something the previous owner didn't want to spend any money on maintaining.
See how you go with those tips I sent you. Most significant offender likely to be plugs but leads and other things mentioned in the private message are probably contributing factors.
Hope to hear back from you soon with your new log in, "Happy Chappy!".

Sounds like thermostat has been removed. What position is temp gauge in usually?

Thanks Hardball. There is a sensor under the housing that I removed, which I presume is the temperature sensor. The temperature as shown on the gauge behaves normally, but tends to read a bit high. I've had the van for about 6 years and only used it for short trips. You've just given me the idea that maybe there is another problem in the cooling system that the previous owner 'fixed' by removing the thermostat? The water pump is the next place to look I guess. Here in Australia it has been a bit warm recently and maybe a preexisting problem has only just come to light? The problem is that it has been boiling but not losing much fluid, a slight dribble sometimes from the exhaust. I've not yet tried, but the replacement thermostat does not look like it would fit in the housing that I have removed. What do you think? Thanks Pete

Dribble from exhaust? If that happens only on a cold motor then its 'condition normal'. Fortunately for you, the 2.4's don't seem to blow head gaskets.
Without looking at it I'd say it's time for a new radiator. Temp gauge should not go above exactly half.
The radiators come in various thicknesses. When they come off the assembly line a standard radiator is fitted. When the van gets to the Land of Oz, local content requirement means aircon is fitted here. Problem with that aftermarket approach is that the van ought to have had a higher capacity radiator fitted at the outset for aircon. That's why standard radiators are good for only 2 years.
Help is at hand and it's quite affordable.
A 44mm thickness radiator can be purchased on mebay for ~$116 delivered to Sydney metro and was delivered in 2 days! Supplier was in Lakemba/Belmore area.
And fitting is almost as easy as a Ford or Holden. Remove drivers seat (4 bolts) then inspection plate that is under it (~8 bolts). Remove top and bottom hoses and auto cooling lines (if fitted). Remove fan cowling (4 nuts) and all that holds radiator in is one bolt at the top. Pull radiator straight up. Easy!
You now degrease and pressure wash the fan clutch if it's black then slide in your new, high capacity radiator.
You can get a thicker radiator again but at 50mm thickness the purchase price doubles to about $230. I fit the 44mm/$116 radiators as it's cost effective and does the job even in the hottest conditions. And running aircon.
While you're at it, replace original thermostat or you will have no heat on your feet in winter!
People who remove thermostats thinking it will improve circulation through blocked radiator cores are turkeys.
Don't bother with getting the radiator "rodded" to clean the cores. Costs you more than the brand new high capacity replacement if you DIY.
My back was a bit sore when I replaced mine so got mate over to help but it was so easy and light I did it myself while he just passed the beers!

There's a bearing race in the top of the column. I seem to recall it's where the steering lock is. Give it a shot of Multilube liquid grease or similar. Not WD40. It washes lubricants out!

I've got two vans that can do that from time to time and one of those starter motors is 5 months old!
If it doesn't start after about 10 attempts it's probably battery. Jumper leads off a vehicle that is running will resolve that debate.
A $3 digital voltmeter on mebay is a great investment. I have them on my work vehicles so there's less guesswork. They're wired up directly to the battery terminals. If batt voltage drops to half when cranking then it's battery.
The $78 starter motors on mebay struggle with the 2.4's but they eventually get there. No good on a hot motor if you stall it though but may be OK on your 2 litre.
If in doubt get the Bosch 1.2kw starter ($180 on mebay delivered).
If it's battery look into fitting a larger one. The battery place put me onto that first time round. He called it a "Holden battery". Not sure if it's 11 or 13 plate. The ones I fit are original height but apparently you can fit a higher capacity taller battery too.
A slot cut into the battery box with a small grinder does the trick. Just slide an aftermarket battery clamp (j bolt) into the slot when the battery is in situ and just turn the j bolt whilst in the slot and tighten.

Gosh mate you sure know ya l300’s don’t ya... Love your work mate and thank you. Oh yer it was the battery, did only put the same size one back in and managed to recondition my starter too... ( only a clean polish and re-grease ) nothing to it... (obviously no burnt out windings or could either which helped....
Thanks again mate

OK.
Emergency fit and all that.
Now, in 2 yrs time next winter when it starts cranking slowly, get the Holden 13 plate battery. The starter motors are not "geared reduction" which are typical Japanese design. They are a scaled down version of a direct drive that you would find in any Ford, Chev, Holden etc and those 6 cylinder and V8 starters could draw up to 800 amps cranking.
With a big battery they start quick! The slower an electric motor turns the more current it draws so a fast start is a good start. Brushes last longer.
Got 20 yrs out of my original starter on courier cycle (100 starts a day) using the larger batteries.
The after market $78 starter lasted 5 months. Running the Bosch 1.2 kw now and couldn't be happier. Cranks faster than original and battery terminal voltage does not drop below 11.4v cranking.

Carb'd or efi? Original leads? How long have the same plugs been in it? Distributor or coil packs? What is fuel pressure like? When was air filter last cleaned?

Oh yeah. Forgot to ask. Original size battery? Hard to start. Slow cranking or slow ignition? What is battery terminal voltage when cranking?
Engine missing under load is usually an indicator that you are perservering with those crappy 6mm OEM high tension spark plug leads. But situation is not helped if you are not maintaining spark plug gaps @ about hacksaw blade width.
- Pull your plugs & gap correctly.
- Buy a set of Eagle blue 8mm leads for $45 on mebay.
- Fit an 11 plate holden battery.
Sorted.

Hey, much appreciated, will check plugs & leads

Isn't the replacement single DIN? I use keys that the radio installers use to pop the radio out of the din bracket. Jigsaw blade down each side of the radio might pop it if they are not too thick. Couple of short lengths of a broken bandsaw blade would do it - especially a metal cutting blade.
Otherwise wiggle the radio and the single din bracket out together and using a fine flat tip screwdriver pop the spring clips that prevent the radio from coming out of the din bracket.

hi Yes replacement is 1din, but the din cage is not big enough, also the Mitsubishi bracket screws into the old radio, which means cage is no good, looks like i will have to re-drill brackets so they can fitted onto the new radio, new radio is only half the depth of old one as they don't have cd players any more, not hard just annoying in this plug and play world,

That would explain why I have seen other drivers mount aftermarket radios on their own brackets, underneath the ashtray. Their argument is that they will take the radio with them when they sell the vehicle.

Fusebox above accelerator pedal. About 3rd from top left as I recall.

Hellooooo?
Earth to Mars. Anyone home?

Relay(s) behind glovebox. Starter motor and (I presume, never tested this) fuel pump relays/solenoids. Both relays are the same. Good luck. Go forth with more than an entry level multimeter in hand..

Thanks I've looked behind the glovebox and can't find anything, both Mitsubishi and Repco don't have a fuel pump relay on their parts list for this vehicle

Pump in tank.
As far as fuse goes, dunno. Relay behind glovebox. One is starter motor but both the same.

Is the location of relay the same in a 2004 express?

Star wagon. Express. Triton 2.4, Great Wall V240. All the same motor.
4G63=2 litre
4G64=2.4
Older models have distributor/coil ignition (pre '04 I think. Coil packs after that) If you just buy the long motor and fit your own running gear - no problem.
Later models had 24 valve. '99's in 2.4 were 24 valve head.