Mitsubishi Express 2006-2013 Questions & Answers

not sure, do you have power steering, and air con, normally a second belt serves Air con, one belt should go around fan, water pump, alternator, and or power steering if fitted,

Pull.
If that doesn't work come down to our depot where the Rapid Rise curtain door can remove them for free!

Our curtain removes them for free. Doesn't replace them unfortunately.

Snapped mine @ 220 k and cost me an engine. Due for a rebuild anyway so I wasn't crying for the $100 for a 2nd hand engine that I could rebuild/reco.
Alan currently holds the record for belts. I think he said it was 370k but you better check with him.
Usually the limit with rebuilds is about 350 k's as clutch life is about that and down to rivets by then and engine is blowing smoke (oil rings). Same with autos. You would be down to brass on your clutch packs at that mileage so you reco engine and transmission/clutch at the same time.
As for warnings, it's a red light indicating zero oil pressure after the event as oil pump is belt driven. By the time the light goes on your valve stems are bent as it's an interference engine.
Manufacturer recommended interval is 100k. Snap at 200k+. Most people change at about 150k which is halfway betwen the two.

That problem is easier than it looks. It is almost always the sending unit. Mitsi Spares if you are in trouble.

Are you able to describe where the sending unit is? Id like to fix this myself but YouTube doesnt seem to have many videos on the express. whats a Mitsi spare? Sorry from US. Im not familiar with all auzzie slang yet.

My apologies and welcome to the forum. Not sure, never fixed one myself, but they are normally screwed into the thermostat housing. Get your sender unit from a car breaker. A couple of turns of thread tape around the new unit when you screw it to place. Mitsi Spares is the name of a local breaker that we use here. What he doesn't know about mitsy's, you could carve into the back of an ashtray with an axe.

Probably is running out of fuel.
When did you last change the fuel filter?

Fuel filter replaced probably 12 months ago.

Still sounds like fuel. When pumps go they can exhibit erratic behaviour. Had one that behaved a bit like that. You might want to get your fuel delivery pressure tested.
If it is the pump (located in tank) replace with a genuine Bosch unit. Does require some skills with soldering iron to make it fit. Same cost as original (maybe $350) but much bigger and don't burn out. You can get aftermarket units much cheaper but how long they last is anyone's guess.

Fuel filter.
Change it ASAP. If you don't the increased back pressure will take out your pump.
In the meantime, keep your fuel over 1/4. Keeps the pump from overheating.

Mebay filters (honda filter) are about 3 for $43.
$90 ea at supercheap/autopro.
Depending on whether your model was fully imported or not, the parts lookup guide can be totally useless.
If you can, undo the security bolt that holds the clamping bracket on the fuel filter behind passengers side front wheel and pull the filter down without disconnecting anything. Its sort of a rolling action so that your hoses don't crimp. Get the number off the side of it.

Thanks, I will try.

Behind driver's seat. Compressed air

4G64

think you may be looking for an electrical problem solenoid or regulator, try let the engine idle for ten or more minutes, then see if it jumps when you drive it, if so take it too garage and replicate it for the mechanic,

Check coils. They can open circuit on the primaries when cracked. They will only exhibit this behaviour when they get hot. A simple continuity tester is ideal for checking this but you need to check your coil primaries when it's playing up!
When the coil packs cool down electrical connectivity is restored in the primaries and they tend to check almost normal readings (when using an ohmmeter) which makes it a bit difficult for most people to diagnose because the fault, although temperature dependent, appears to be intermittent.
No use taking to an auto electrician unless they are old school. All the new generation require a self diagnostic report to tell them what's wrong, otherwise they can't fix it.
If temp is above half get a new radiator. If you allow motor to continue to overheat (if it is) it's going to take out more coil packs.

Ps. Replacing leads was not wasted money. The genuine 7mm OEM leads were renown for arcing causing misfire, usually as you were coming off the line on a green.

Why?
Done 930k on mine without and no oil leaks.

Take to a reputable mechanic.
It's probably blown a head gasket.

try replacing radiator cap and don't overfill the overflow bottle

Pulling back to passenger seat

I tried that when Alan suggested it but I chickened out for fear of snapping something. The unit has been in there 20 yrs!

Presuming you've undone the nut on the balljoint and it's still stuck in there. Replace it but have it on only about 2-3 turns.
If you got the old balljoint out and new one does not easily fit, it's the wrong part!
If you are tampering with the camber adjustment bolt, put it back with exactly the same settings as the one on the other arm. No need to remove it! There are markings on the cam to get the alignment right. If you don't have them both the same (left and right control arms), vehicle will have different wheel cambers (the amount the wheels lean in or out relative to vertical).
Now that the camber bolt is back in place with original settings, let's get down to business.
Lower the weight of the vehicle onto the upper control arm or the steering knuckle. If you can't get the jack in there to support the UPPER control arm, use a short length of hardwood and lower the vehicle onto it using a small garage floor jack (1 .5 ton). Use other bits of timber laying on the ground to get your height under the upright piece that supports the upper control arm. Leave the hydraulic floor jack under the vehicle as well, to assist supporting the vehicle in the event it may drop. This makes the entire operation both safe and easy.
The idea is to have the torsion bar spring pulling down the lower control arm but have an upward force on another part of the suspension geometry. I normally use the upper control arm supported by a piece of wood but have the jack supporting the cross member - but only just. The more weight you can put on the lower control arm the more successful is the removal outcome.
Once you have the weight of the vehicle on the wood (or jack if you got it in there) give the steering knuckle 3 mammoth hits with a brickies mallet directly on the lower balljoint mounting until it pops the taper. The resonance of the impact actually breaks the morse taper. Having the nut on the tapered shaft stops the highly sprung control arm from going anywhere and injuring anyone. It would help if you could post a photo of these procedures but then I guess the consultants wouldn't make any money!
There are other methods of cutting out recalcitrant morse taper shafts, but they are workshop jobs involving the use of oxy to either heat the joint using the same method of bash and pray or just cutting out the old pin with the use of extra oxygen and just burn the s**t out if it.
All the same Henry, kudos to you for having a go. Replacing control arm joints are the hardest job for home mechanics. I get the workshop to do mine generally as they have the gas axe in hand in the event the shaft has seized in the morse taper.
I had to cut a couple of those bolts out of my Nissan Urvan from time to time as they were always seizing in the joint. Nissan's had the balljoint welded into the lower control arm so removing the camber/castor bolt and the entire control arm was the only way to change them - until the aftermarket arms appeared that had bolt in ball joints for 1/5 of the price of the OEM control arm with welded balljoint, so I know your pain!

I tool pictures of the adjustment so it should be ok when I put it back, hopefully. I tried to hammer the new balljoint in for a loong time, but would not go straight.. So can you help me to figure out if its the wrong part? Im a mechanic btw. but living on a cattle station now, so im working with the car in the bush.

Easiest way is to insert balljoint shaft first, then the 4 bolts into the control arm.
If it doesn't fit straight into the morse taper with zero insertion force, it's the wrong shaft. Considering you're using a hammer to make it fit, I'll place bets and say it's the incorrect part. Then again, a mate of mine who used to repair commercial food equipment would say "if it doesn't fit, don't force it. Use a bigger hammer!"
Express/Triton share engine/brake/suspension components.

Depends on what the wheels are off. It maybe that they have the incorrect offset. For Mitsis it's 45-65mm I think. If the offset is biased too far out, the tyres are going to hit the guards.
Falcon wheels have the correct offset.
Mate of mine had similar issues with alloys. He had the centres machined so that the offset was increased, and the wheels no longer hit the arches.
Quick fix. Put the old rims back on with the new tyres. Get the new wheels machined to increase the offset (if they are alloys). If the rims are steel you'll have to sell 'em.

Man. You've got problems. I don't think there is one.....Mitsi Spares. Msg me if you need the number.

If the engine hasn't gone into to 'limp mode', ignore it. Free advice courtesy of Gung Ho Vehicle Sevicing.

Thanks for reply, the engine is running ok in petrol mode But in lpg mode not good 50% .
Now I am running the van on Petrol, but and engine light is still on.
Up to now :
I checked fuel pressure in line 40 Psi or 275 Kpa and with regulator vacuum hoes disconnected 50 Psi 345Kpa, I am not sure, is that high for Mitsubishi express 2009 2.4 EFT?
I changed Spark Plug, I tested spark plug lead and coil with (Car Adjustable Spark Plug Ignition Tester ) around 3cm gap the spark for 4 cylinders are very good.
I have got ( error code P0421 ), I tested O2 sensor, it is good.
I am Planning to clean catalytic converter hoping to fix this issue.
will you recommend anything extra ?
Thank you in advance.

The original leads were crap. Yep, 6mm bits of rubbish that were renown for arcing. A set of 8mm silicon leads are about $45 on mebay.
This may not address the engine light issue but I'm placing bets @ 10 to 1 that it fixes the misfiring.
Since you're a mechanic, I'm going to go a bit deeper. Earlier distributor models sometimes had misfiring issues brought on by electrical interference between the high tension circuits (spark plug leads) and the sensor circuit (the low voltage leads for the distributor). Seperate the HT leads as much as you can from the wiring loom to reduce this. Note: I am not familiar with coil pack ignition systems but I will take an educated guess and speculate that there is some sort of crank angle sensor on the front of that camshaft with wires coming out of it. If anyone else can help out here fell free to chip in!
Use ziplocks and reroute the wiring loom by undoing brackets and getting as much seperation as you can between high and low voltage wiring with particular attention to keeping seperation between crank angle sensor leads and spark plug leads. Last time someone had this issue here he took the van to four mechanics and none could tell him why van would not start. We set him straight in 5 min.
If that light stays on after replacing the leads, run the tank dry (100 klms after the low fuel light goes on you need a tow rope) so somewhere around 500klms after filling then top up with 98. The light is usually a product of error codes produced by the O2 sensor and a tank of premium seems to placate it.
I carry a 5 litre oil container filled with petrol in case I don't make the distance.
You will need to get handy with a 10mm socket and a Philips head screwdriver to change the leads as the air inlet pipe needs to come off. Dont sweat it - its easier than it looks! Just look for a Supacheap on your travels and get one if those 1/2", $10 socket sets. Bunnings have the loooong handled generic philips head screwdrivers for $2.

Air flow over the rad, check to see if it needs cleaning,

A couple of candidates.
First and most obvious is radiator. Over time the internal cores start to build up residue just like your arteries. This slows down their capacity to cool.
I used to pay $200 to have the top tank removed in situ and the rod put through it. Equivalent of a big nail file that cleans the scale from inside the radiator cores. Whole process can be done on a Saturday morning.
This will work for a while but never as good as a new radiator.
Last time I had this issue was about 3 months ago. Ordered a new radiator on mebay on Friday nite and it was on my doorstep on Monday arvo... $116 delivered! But wait, there's more! The new radiator has cores that are double the thickness of the original...almost. 44mm! Standard is about 25. These radiators are known as high capacity and what you should be fitting if you have aircon. You can get radiators with cores marginally thicker @ 50mm but they are double the price.
When you buy the vans from the dealers, they come with standard radiators and aircon is supplied as an aftermarket, local content accessory so it's always a job half done. Do yourself a favor and fit the high capacity radiator. Runs aircon on 40° days when everyone else is overheating.
Apart from removing the seat and an inspection plate, it's two hoses, 1 bolt and out. I've had harder jobs on Holdens and Valiants! Alright, I fibbed a bit there. You have to remove 4 nuts to remove the cowling but it's dead easy. Tip. Degrease the engine whilst radiator is out so that pressure washer does not damage your radiator finning
Even if you don't have aircon the maths rules out a reco. A brand new, high capacity radiator is half the price of cleaning a standard that will have, at best, half the cooling capacity of the aftermarket one.
Second possibility is fan clutch is losing fluid. Here's how ya check. Lift engine cover on a cold motor and start. If fan blows like a tornado for the first 60 seconds, it has fluid. If it does not blow hard when you give the engine a rev and fan hub is covered in black it has probably lost fluid. This will also cause van to overheat and is difficult to diagnose as it rarely happens. As the viscous clutch slowly loses fluid, it gradually loses the ability to engage and pull air when it needs to. If this is the case it's usually replacement of the fan clutch but depending on the make, some can be refilled with oil.