Volkswagen Passat Questions & Answers

Sorry Debra, my Passat is a 2018 model. Have you tried the internet or a dealership?

Yes I have but can't find any

We need a 1.8 petrol not a diesel

Hi Nick ... I was sent your query in error I think as it is addressed as Hi Steve and I am Rob ... Sorry I can't assist ....hope you get the issue resolved.

Hi Rob,
Thanks for your reply and this advice.
I will try to see if I can this query again, but to Steve.
Regards,
Nick.

If serviced properly (and certainly not necessarily by VW dealerships) and services are up to date, this engine - from my research, is capable of much higher mileages. I have seen them advertised for sale at 700,000 km plus. Things to watch for at 200k plus, are less than smooth DSG6 transmission/gearbox, smooth noiseless dual mass flywheel operation and clean exhaust Diesel particulate filter. Note...there are cleaning products available for DPF filters. These are all very expensive repairs compared to other makes.The 2.0L diesel engines require a higher fuel cetane rating than Australian average fuel company bowsers. I use BP Ultimate diesel exclusively as it is the only fuel consistently promising/delivering above the 51 cetane rating recommended, and which also includes diesel injector cleaner (info courtesy of BP chemists). City vehicles with history of using lesser fuels do not appeal to me, however, high mileage "highway used vehicles" providing cleaner burning, do not frighten me, I personally have a 2007 2.0L DSG6 Passat sedan with 190K, and after replacing transmission at 170K ($4,000 for a used low km replacement) plan to keep for up to two more years, and then look for a 2013 or newer replacement with no more that 90K, on the assumption that all VW problems experienced in 2007-2012 models have been sorted. On the upside, these vehicles are phenomenal to drive, achieve great fuel economy (mine gets a very accurate 5.4L/100k mixed city/highway), and at times 4.6L/100k highway. I source most of my servicing parts, including 2 sets of brake pads in a bulk order from Europe at an absolute fraction of the hugely inflated prices charged in Australia (try ebay shop e-bock site). I use Nulon 5w30 Euro engine oil at 7,500 intervals, and change oil filters at 15,000 intervals. 60K transmission service with transmission oil/filter from runautoparts in Sydney) and timing service at 120K intervals (kits/belts purchased from Europe and job done at my local independent workshop at 1/3 labour cost quoted by VW dealer. I do my own normal servicing and service light resets. I purchased a VAG tool from the US....$500 but a great investment, in order to be able to read/scan my vehicles computer, and look to the internet for explanation of codes/diagnosis etc, a resource which I value much higher than VW dealerships. I consult European specialists online with symptoms and pay by contribution accordingly which in all cases have been accurate and well worth the small but fair amounts contributed.Answers from this source have been a much better option than VW dealers who can often work on hunches more so than accurate diagnosis. ie keep replacing things until you fluke a fix.....at owners expense. Yes, I do love the vehicle, but through experience of owning 3 VWs, avoid the support network like they are a plague. Hope this helps.

Hi.
I own a 2012 Passat wagon 2 litre tdi. Mine has done 187000 km and has not missed a beat. However, things to look out for.
1. The timing belt has to b changed every 100000km, this also includes the water pump.
Make sure this has been down. Over $1200 to replace.

2. Check the air conditioner to see if it’s running cold. This is a know problem with Vw ac compressors.

3. Check that the DSG gearbox has been serviced regularly. Ie oil changes. Also check if the software to the negation ice unit has been updated. Should be a sticker on the inside of the drivers door. Not the diesel gearbox was much more reliable than the petrol version.

Other than that, mine has been a great car.

New tyres seemed extremely noisy but rode well. Noise ended up being right rear wheel bearing. Apparently not unusual for new tyres and wheel align to affect wheel bearings on vehicles with higher mileage. Hope this helps.... Cheers.

The stiffer suspension gives a better handling especially during cornering. For me, the stiffer suspension actually offered a better ride comfort due to less rolling. But of course if your main requirement is for a softer rides, This may not offer that.

Subject to price,I believe it would be a good buy. After recent research I will be in the market for exactly this model (diesel 2.0 turbo/DSG6 combo) when I move on from my present 2007 sedan which now has done 190k. On a personal note, I am happy to sacrifice years for kilometres within the same production run. For instance, if production run went 2013-2016, I would opt for a 2013 model with 40,000km than a 2015 model with 90,000km, given that both were around the same price. I am also "red-hot" on extra oil and filter changes midway through regular VW long servicing schedules. For very sound reasons (as explained to me by industry chemists) I exclusively use BP Ultimate diesel. Hope this helps.

Hi. Don't be scared of owning a diesel car especially VW. When driven sensibly you will get around 6lt/100km which is great. With the Km's on the clock I would check if the timing chain and water pump have been replaced. Overall your purchase should still be sound as the cars are built well. The DSG gearboxes are better from 2012 onwards. Hope this helps. M

Hi - was the car subject to the diesel recall? Note that if it was, and it hasn't been actioned, there is no legal requirement in Australia to respond. I'm unclear if this is a private purchase, or from a dealer, but I think VW still offers a 100-point type test to check if anything is suspect. I'd suggest a careful look at the DSG (I had a failure at about 75000 km on a 7 year old 6 speed). Enjoy the car - I am driving my 8th VW and every one has been excellent

checkout runautoparts on ebay for VW gearbox oil and filters. I source most other genuine vw parts from e-bock in Europe to sidestep VW dealerships and exorbitant prices for VW spares in Australia.

In all honesty it's done a few miles so expect some maintenance. I would say if service done every 15000kms by VW or VW specialist it should be ok. Get a VW mechanic to check it out. In the uk it's common to see 90-120,0000 miles on the Passat around this age and they look pretty good.

Just make sure you get a german car specialist to look at it first. Not a vw dealer. They will also check the ecg gear that tends to clog up, especially if auto. They change at such low revs that engine doesnt work hard enough to burn off carbon deposits. But regular services and it'll last 200k km.

Hi, we drive mainly in city areas and if you are talking about the vehicle throwing up dust behind it as it's being driven, we do notice the rear becomes dirty in less than 10 days after washing it where as the rest of the car is relatively clean. If you are talking about dust being drawn into the cabin whilst driving (without windows open, of course), this is unusual and not meant to happen, I'd be taking it up with Volkswagen. We haven't driven on a dirt track of any substantial length in ours to know if it happens to our car. The only other thing that occurs to me is that we notice the chassis will flex slightly at low speed when manoeuvring diagonally over changes in gradient (e.g. cross-overs that are steep compared to the road, or curbs or sharp speed bumps) causing the doors to move slightly and I can hear the 'pop' as the seals release and then re-engage, maybe this is happening on dirt roads?

Thanks Joanne, yes, I've noticed the 'flex' thing happening too! Good word for it, as I never knew how to describe it ;) We live on a farm, so it's doing a fair bit of dirt driving. Awesome handling, just a dust sucker. Have taken it up with VW, new seals etc etc, and lots of photos taken, door tightened, however, it never really fixes the problem. I'm scared we'll inherit the same problem if we get another Passat or the Alltrack :( Hence putting this question out there :)

I don't have an electric tail gate, but the gas struts on mine failed at the 3yr mark.

Hi, we have a tow-bar on the 2013 model (Volkswagen fitted) and know that once you connect the trailer lights the tailgate will not open up fully. To get around this, we disconnect the trailer lights and get the Tailgate opening fully. If you are having intermittent issues with electric tailgate operation without trailer lights attached, I'd suggest there's a problem with your wiring.

It tells you in the manual how to adust the rise If you sop it halfway it may set itsellf there but can be altered Read the manual

Hi, I have a corporate service contract so I just see the bill at the end of the year. Haven't had any issues mechanically and on 73k for the mileage. The only issue so far has been a crack on a piece of plastic from the sun which is under warranty and the continental tires all developed cambers and had to be replaced at 40k.
Contact a dealer for service costs, VW are not renown for being cheap to service. Watch for DSG boxes. The vw forum (watercooler) will have more info

We have owned our B6 VW Passat sedan 2007 2.0L diesel for 2 years and from 105k. We bought well, but needed to due to potential for recall aka service programs and possible breakdowns and expensive repairs on DSG6 transmission mechatronics unit, oil pumps problems etc etc....Warranty on mechatronics unit was extended to 10 years or 160k and our DSG6 has now imploded at 169k with a quote of $3800 for mechatronics repairs. This is our second passat, but will probably not buy a third, due not to the volume of problems experienced with VW vehicles generally, but due to VW "warranty denial processes and lack of proper after sales servicing in addition to overpricing in the extreme for parts and labour costs. Another major factor with VW Auto Group vehicles is that far too often dealerships fail to diagnose problems with proper definitive results, but rather work on a hit and miss part replacement strategy until a problem is remedied. On a positive note the fuel economy is outstanding but offset by seriously inflated servicing and fundamental breakdown costs. Sophisticated Euro vehicles?.... yes,....... worth the extra costs to buy and own? Not in my opinion, but only due to what I consider to be little less than exploitation at all stages of ownership.
PS I buy my genuine VW parts direct from Europe on average at less than 1/3 cost in Australia inclusive of airfreight. I only look for repair service outside of dealerships.
UPDATE>
Further to my original comment, Mechatronics unit was installed but made no difference and did not eliminate whirring noise. Quoted a further $6k on top to fix.
Your *#*#* joking right!!!! ...No way...
Negotiated removal of new mechatronics and installed a 2nd hand gearbox. Flywheel looked ok but apparently clutch pack (wet clutch in DSG6) was more than likely the problem (apparently they drop a circlip resulting in late engagement with a "horrible delayed and frightening thud"?

Outcomes as related to me:
"tinkling metal"= likely to be mechatronics but maybe dualmass flywheel unless previously replaced (original units used springs which were problematic in service and superceded by a stronger later unit)....remove starter motor from vehicle and check flywheel "play between dual metal discs movement" before ordering mech unit...just in case.
Whirring = "maybe clutch pack" but may also extend to bearings in gearbox...difficult to source bearings and difficult to diagnose......A European fixer of mechatronics units strongly urged me to exhaust all trouble codes especially engine (I had G28 which is crankshaft speed sensor) before going anywhere near transmission.
Too often I read where ad-hoc R & R cost some owners up to $10k. Used transmissions are coming on market in bigger numbers now and at reducing prices. Some advertise at $2200+ while others at $500-$700 quoting similar kms on vehicle being broken.
My biggest disappointment...the tech giant VW transmission failure did not record a transmission fault code after a number of full scans. In spite of this investing in my own Ross-Tech Vag scan tool together with Ross_Tech Wiki support has been my best decision to date.

I find the seats quite good never to hard,not as supportive as the golf gti I had before though. I travel to Sydney reqularly from Canberra and never have I needed to stop because I was uncomfortable. I have owned many cars both fron japan and and only found european cars seats supportive for my 6 foot 2 frame.
Everyone is different so I suggest you try the seats out. Good luck with your car shopping.

The seats in my car are leather and pretty comfy. I drive 2 hrs to work often and don't have trouble with the seats and have occasionally driven as long as 6 hr stints. You're wanting to get up and move about before 6 hrs is up, but I expect it would be the same in any car. The drivers seat base has had the top layer of foam in it replaced because it failed within 3 years of new. To replace the whole seat base is $600! I'm 6 foot 2 inches and weigh 100kg.

No reverse cameras, they weren't an option when I bought this car.. I have front & rear parking sensors though, that I find invaluable..