Shell Helix Questions & Answers

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No do not use it. It's for cars only. For motorcycle's use the correct motorcycle oil.

If it's an expensive bike and bike oil is readily available then I would buy that. If it is still under warranty then no. But if it's a cheap run of the mill bike and you are a days drive from a shop then yeah why not.

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No I would not use it. I would use the oIL that is specied for motorcycles it make work OK but I would not risk it.

No I would not use it. I would use the oIL that is specied for motorcycles it may work OK but I would not risk it.

Ok, i have heard that it is ok in a wet clutch use, but i thought i would put the question out there to see if anyone has actually used it and how it went with a wet clutch motorcycle .

Thanks .

What year was the hilux made and is it petrol or diesel.

Have a look on the Shell Lubematch webpage. Later models call for a 5W30 Helix Ultra ECT. Earlier models state the HX7 10W40 as the preferred oil.

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Check the repco and supercheap auto catalogs they have it on special occasionally

$15.95 for a 5 litre at supercheap at the moment

NO! Use Diesel engine lubricant.

Thanks please let me know how I will identify which is diesel engine lubricant for Maruti Vitaran Breeza.Regards

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This was sold as a Mitsubishi challenger in Australia. Better to use a hx5 15w40 however having said this it’s a few years old and these engines have a reputation for smoking as a result of stem seals hardening. If so then a 20w50 would be ok as it’s still a Cf spec https://www.shell.com.au/motorists/oils-lubricants/lubematch.html#iframe=L0x1YmUvU2hlbGxBVS8/aWY9MQ==

No idea. never seen that model in Australia.

In Australia we've typically used heavier weight oils than have been required (Even I've been guilty.) Yes it will work fine. However for best performance Helix Ultra 5W40 would be my pick.

One good thiing about the mineral based shell oils is that if you're patient, they're often enough on sale for $10-15 for 5L at repco/supercheap or autobarn.

Regards
Jordan

@Kris. No idea mate. Look in the driver's handbook, and see which grades of oil they recommend. Shell probably has a grade to suit. That being said. Most of the later model cars require lower viscocity oils. Also, as a motor gets older (in milage) it may need a heavier oil. (Higher viscocity number)

Www.shell.com.au/lubematch or 1300 134 205 for technical helpline. A quick google looks like the 1.4l was not in Australia but was in the 2006 Clio. Helix ultra 5w40 or hx7 10w40. Agree with previous comment that a 12 yr old car will likely benefit from the 10w40

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After an oil change The new detergents in the fresh oil can loosen deposits in the engine. I'm not overly familiar with that engine and whether or not it is sludge prone. A good easy check is to remove the valve covers and inspect. If there's lots of black tar then it's likely the oil pick up has become blocked.

Conversely it cold be something as simple as a faulty electrical connection causing the light to flicker on and off (honestly happened to me once.)

In any event it's unlikely to be the oil causing a problem. If it continues to be a problem having the sump removed and the pick up inspected might be your best option.

Regards
Jordan

this is the second oil change after the engine was rebuilt with new liners,pump, bearings etc. due to Nikasil problems. no sludge in the engine.

A 10w40 is the same as a 5w40 at running temperature. When cold a 10w40 is slightly thicker. If the engine is cold the 10w could take slightly longer to circulate but this would be very marginal and unlikely the source of you problem. Did you check the dipstick after filling and running? If not, as the oil fills the new filter the level drops and could cause an oil light to come on. Just thougt I’d put this out there incase this was an oversight!

Helix Ultra ECT C3 5W30 or Helix Ultra AG 5W30 would be your best bet.

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Chainsaw bar oils contain tackifiers to help the oil stick to the chain as opposed to being flung off (much like motorcycle chain oils.) Any lubricant is better than no lubricant, but a fit for purpose lubricant is best.

Yes, but it is too low a viscosity to lubricate it sufficiently. Motor-bike Chain oil or Chainsaw Bar oil is best. Chainsaw Bar oil is extremely sticky, which makes it ideal for the job.
In Australian hardwoods, the chain is working under very arduous conditions.

Motor oil is too thin and the tank will empty in a flash in my experience. Bar oil is thicker.

If it is a diesel....NO.
Other than that it depends on the year and the engine.. Use the handbook for a guide as to viscosity. If shell has a suitable grade, why not? There are many oils available. I have found Shell oils to be good value for money. There are of course better quality - specialist - oils, but the price would make your eyes water. As I have said before. I get over 500,000 klm. out of my petrol engines on Helix 10W - 40. That's good enough for me.

As has been said, have a look at the owners manual. There are many Toyota Hilux's, many different engines and the age/milage plays into the selection process as well.

The answer is maybe. Hx7 10w40 has an API cf rating which is a diesel spec. Many manufacturers give multiple options including acea a3/b4, which is suitable for direct injection diesels. The shell rimula range is a dedicated diesel oil and contains the later ci4 and cj4 specs, better again. Need to check your handbook but definitely would not write hx7 10w40 off - it's a great oil and the same oil will most likely go in the mrs vehicle

Never heard of the car.
But I sympathize with your other problem. i too have a very deep stick. My lady finds Coconut Oil to of great benefit, even though I do warm her up for an hour, before I give her a run.

Regards......Ralph.

For an Alto I'd recomend the 5W40 Helix Ultra oil. Change it every 10,000kms. Depending on the service history of the engine it is probably worth doing a engine oil flush as follows:

Add oil flush, and run engine for 20 minutes
Dump oil and replace filter
Refill with the cheapest oil you can find
Add engine oil flush and run engine for 20 minutes
Dump oil again and replace oil filter
Refill with 5W40 or 5W30 AG Helix Ultra.

If you start to notice a few oil leaks, don't stress, give the engine bay a good steam clean to remove all the gunk from years on the road. Synthetics are known to lift/remove old deposits that may in-fact be 'sealing' a surface. That's because synthetics like Ultra are designed to stop deposits forming in the first place and remove existing deposits. Giving it a good bath will allow you to pinpoint where the leaks (if any) are coming from. The good news is that gaskets and seals for the Alto are cheap and easy to fit.

While you're at it a new set of spark plugs (<$20,) new plug leads (<$20) and a new distributer cap (~$10) will have the little engine feeling like new.

Regards
Jordan

Thank you so much Mr.Jordan your awnser will help many other Pakistanies .

You use an oil which suits your type of car, and stay within its limitations. As I said, I change the oil every 5K ie. 65K oil - 70K oil and filter. Even the makers say so in their operating manuals. "For arduous conditions more frequent servicing may be required." I usuall keep my cars ten years or more and do huge milages. 10K to 15k oil changes often ruin motors, for no one ever checks under the bonnet. I use my cars daily. I check under the bonnet daily. If hoses are split or air cleaners are allowing in dust, no brand of oil will help. Also the more bulldung the oil manufacturer claims, tends to make me doulbtful - Castrol Magnatec for example. Have you ever, seriously, read what they claim? BTW. The term "MAGNATEC" in their blurb, has been banned in most western countries. I reiterate. Find an oil suitable for your motor, and do regular services. That is for everything, not just your oil. If you rebuild your engine with Heppolite pistons, better bearings, closer tolerances, and add a Turbocharger,, you will probably need a viscositty 0 oil ; say 0 - 20 SAE with a heat range to now suit that engine. For instance; The LJ Toranas I rebuild need an engine rebuild at about 70K, oil change every 1.5K, no matter what oil I may use. If you are exceeding the heat range of you oil it is obvious. It will use little or no oil for the first 2 to 3K and lots thereafter. If my data does not suit your opiniion, so be it. After a lifetime of engineering both in mechanics and electronics, Ihave found that no amount of facts will ever alter a highly cherished opinion.

Regards......Ralph.

I have played around with different fully synthetic & organic oil in the last 10 years with 2 Corolla & Avalon & Holden GM Commodore & Ford Falcon, your question goes to the basic log book recommendation, since Helix 7 is not fully synthetic, your recommended mileage in change is basically @ 5-7 000km, the arguments are whether the user wants to spend more money to change more frequently & use fully synthetic oil like Helix 8 which I used for Corollas. How old is your car? Oil is oil, the motor mechanics & the oil company make it a very complicated topic which in fact is not.
A new affordable fully synthetic Hyundai XTeer 5W -30 (2014 ) has come out from last year in Australia, on sale on Ebay, it is very exciting indeed, Hyundai developed with Shell. But price is great, have a look

Never used Liqui Moly. I am not trying to say Helix HX7 is the is the best oil on the market, just the best value for money, for normal engines. If you have a forced induction engine which runs very hot, you may need something which is of higher specification. That said; I used to add Molybond to my oil in the FC Holden days. However, both oils and metallurgy, have moved on apace, since those days.

Liqui-Moly is high on price, low on transparency. It's not a bad product, but in Australia at least it's priced out of the market, making other products far more attractive for equal or better performance.

For your Skoda you should be using Shell Helix Ultra 0W-30 ECT C2/C3, this oil meet the current VW 504/507 specification (This oil is blended in Europe.) Change it with a new filter every 10k kms and you'll have no troubles. This is available from both Repco and Autobarn stores off the shelf for ~$80 AUD for 5L. This oil has a viscosity index of over 200 which is basically unequaled. In short the higher the viscosity index, the more stable the oil remains as temperatures increase.

Some stores still have the previous blend Shel Helix Ultra ECT 5W-30, which also meets the 504/507 spec, but is now no longer blended or available new in Australia.This is also suitable.

Other good blends that meet the 504/507 spec include (in my personal order of preference:) prices for 5L
Nulon 5W-30 Euro (PAO based oil, blended in Australia, What I'd personally use is I couldn't get Helix Ultra) $78
Redline Euro 5W-30 (Group5 Ester based, Blended in the USA) $100
Amsoil Euro Low Saps 0(or5)W-30 (PAO based, blended in the USA) $100
Valvoline SynPower XL-III 5W-30 (Group 3 based, Blended in Australia) $60-70
Castrol Edge FST 5W30 (Believed to be PAO based, Blended in Europe, most likely was the factory fill, NOTE: this will be in the diesel oil section) $78
Penrite Envio+ 5W-30 (Group3, Blended in Australia.) +$85
Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 (PAO based, blended in Europe and hellisly expensive.) +$110

Regards
Jordan