Volkswagen Transporter Questions & Answers (page 4 of 6)

I would be looking at the usual things eg: oil leaks, has the oil been changed regularly .
Does the engine run smoothly.
I would be looking at the condition of the timing belt.

I agree with Steve.
Timing belt should be changed every 7 yrs or 105,000kms. Never go over that as it is made of rubber with compounds added which break down automatically with either use or age. If belt breaks, then your engine is immediately cactus and so damaged it wont start. All belts have a sticker on them re date and kms at change.
Belt needs to be replaced religiously on time to avoid a major cost of a new engine. VW engines are not cheap.

Never buy a vehicle without getting it inspected first. I have found that NRMA Pre-Purchase Inspection checks about 10-12 items more than Redbook does (Carsales Inspection Option).

If there is no NRMA in your new vehicles area, find a mechanic that has a hoist long enough to lift the car (no, don't laugh. I found many in a large CITY whose hoists were not very long) and send him the NRMA Checklist. It is similar to a Brown Slip for trucks.

You can find the NRMA detailed checklist here
http://www.mynrma.com.au/motoring-services/motorserve/car-services/vehicle-inspection.htm?gclid=CJHG6rntstMCFQsmvQodZX0NeA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Copy and paste the headings (half way down the page) and what they all involve, save to Word, then email to mechanic.
He can inspect the vehicle off that list.

Hope this helps.

I saw this video on how to remove a fuel pump. Didn't say what model though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fURtqqUKMxI
The car pictured was a left hand drive. Not sure what you have, but it is apparently under a front seat.

R/H drive remove front passenger seat. Pull up floor covers if needed there is a cover held down with about 6 or 8 screws under the cover is the access cover to the fuel tank. Unscrew the big nut/ collar. It's about 4" in diameter inside the fuel tank is the swirl pot grab hold and turn anti clockwise about 1/4 turn. The whole swirl pot and fuel pump assembly will lift out. Then comes the fun part unscrewing the swirl pot. Fuel pump is inside. And costs only a fraction of the price of a complete unit.

I thought that all transporters have a one tonne pay load .

For a 1995 T4, 2.5L (which I have):

Gross Vehicle Mass (kg) 2800
Height (mm) 1940
Gross Combination Mass (kg) 4800
Wheelbase (mm) 2920
Payload (kg) 1105
Track Front (mm) 1589
Towing Capacity (braked) (kg) 2000
Track Rear (mm) 1554
Towing Capacity (Unbraked) (kg) 700

Does this help you?

1.1 tonnes

The engine has never had any problems, still like new.

Not sure, Take it to a VW specialist that's what I do .

Hey I have a t4 97 2L and average 500klm per tank and I have a great mechanic altho he's not done much work with vdub's- I would suggest a good tune but I'm sure you have already done that but I know by the klms I get when I need a tune

My recommendations:

1. Phone your local VW for both part and labour costs as separate items. This is your ceiling cost.
2. Then google for a new clutch online.
3. Get a few different mechanics to quote on labour costs.

Your current mechanic is having a go at you.

Hi. Not on a T4 but my 4.0ltr Falcon wagon had the same issue 2 yrs & 20,000km ago. It was the head gasket leaking to the outside under pressure. Only tell-tale sign was a slight trickle mark on the engine. I was filling the header tank once per week.
One shot of "Aluseal" (or similar) miraculously cured it and only this weekend does it seem to be drinking again. I'll try another dose.
I've always been skeptical of magic potions but I used something similar a few years back on a V6 Camry and it was still fine when I traded it 6 mths later.
Beware, some do not work if Glycol is present at the time of treatment. Fine afterwards. Good luck!
Sean

Thanks mate I tryed that but got worse result in the shop now cheers

Check the bottom radiator hose near the aircon pipes. Mine rubbed through and 2 garages failed to find the the leak. I found the rad hose had rubbed against the the aircon hoses and was self-sealing except when the engine moved enough.
Also check the junction box on front of the head. These are plastic and crack with age.
I use Penrite coolant now and any leak shows up with tell-tale white streak stain.

If you are like a lot of transporter owners and have never had your auto trans serviced, then you are probably due for an expensive lesson. Volkswagen are telling a lot of owners that the transmission is sealed for life. You'll need to get it checked out. What area are you from?

Auto transmissions must be serviced else trouble sorry can't help with much other advice

Thanks
I live in Bondi
At the moment am driving the van in manual mode did 20ks
So far so good

Look for the GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass) plate on the cab probably just inside one of the doors. That is the total weight you can carry including the pantech body. Then go to a weigh bridge and get your vehicle weighed and the difference is the weight you can carry.

I really don't know- I don't even have a tow bar lol BUT in my 93 transporter which does have a tow bar I used it on many occasions to get wood from the woodmill and I loaded that thing up with as much wood as I felt relatively safe to carry and she coped with everything I ever asked her to do for me. If it was me I would do it- the only advice I have is to make sure that your D-links on the trailer are correctly weighted as I have friends that have been busted b'cos D- transport decided to change them and did not inform people and consequently the cops booked them- good luck and let me know how you go. But truely both my transporters have never backed out of anything I have asked them to do m

Yes I understand that Merc wheels fit the v- dub wheel pattern but maybe re-check I don't think Holden patterns are the same. Even on the old Kombi peeps often preferred Merc rims - cheers m

Wondering if you are able to use the old wiring harness and wires rather than trying to adapt the new doors wiring but I wouldn't have thought that they would've been so different- not sure what to suggest- m

Your gear linkage bushes near the gearbox are probably worn. Common fault on T4s. I've changed mine twice. The parts are cheaper overseas on eBay. Pain in the behind to change. Best fixed before it fails!!!!

Syncro is All Wheel Drive. Is your vehicle this?

My Van has only done 47,000 kms. I don't think any service work has been done on the transmission. Possibly some fluid as part of a standard service. I have no knowledge of previous models as this is my first VW.

According to the VW dealer I use (And the VW forum I am a member of) the 7 speed DSG has a recommended fluid and filter change at every 40,000 miles (64,000km) depending on type of driving.
Improved over the 6 speed, I am not sure.

Sorry no diagram. The aircon units were fitted in Australia by more than one company and finding the right size belt is a real pain. If you're stuck let me know and I'll try photograph my 98 2litre.

i have a t5 2008 build, vw macanic says there chain driven {no t belt} i bought mine new and have never had any trouble with it until the other day it broke a cv joint flange, other than that no problems, has 111000k's on the clock, i have it serviced every 10k intead of the 15k...

The auto is fine as long as you change the oil . My engine was no good after 110000 km but they end up replacing it after all but I had to pay $2400 for instalation
If you want a low cost van go for a Toyota

I bought a brand new T5.2 Transporter Auto 4 Motion DSG in 2010. Service book requires new water pump replacement at 100 000 K,s.Cost from memory was about $2500 from Volkspower in Burwood. Still had issues with vehicle. Took it back and they replaced sensor refill bottle. Same issues. A week later I returned the vehicle and they found the thermostat had gone, Disgruntled I took it to a VW service centre to replace thermostat. Twelve months later Warning lamp came on so booked a service with VW service centre and check lamp issues. Secondary water pump replaced of a cost around $700. A week later temperature warning lamp came on after driving on freeway up a very long incline. Pulled over, water blown into engine bay. Called RACV who allowed me to have towed back to VW service centre. Diagnosis, ERG cooler blown. Cost $3500. They have replaced part and now inform me Engine head gasket and / or warped head. Cost... my insanity. Will be going to see them this morning to sort this out. Feeling very vulnerable. No customer support here. Just one bad situation. I live in Melbourne Australia. The service centre is under the banner of South Yarra VW.

I boughjt a 2011 TDI MULTIVAN, Have had for two years when engine light came on. Scan said low flow on EGR valve . Replaced cost $2800 includes cooler
.Now overheating and no end in sight .Maybe also head gasket .who knows .Meanwhile my old 1998 t4 is nearly at 400,000 klms never let me down

Engine light on my TDI 2011 MULTIVAN came on .yes egr valve low flow .This is because the exhaust gas reticulation valve and cooler have exhaust gas through them that go back into the throttle for combustion again. They have carbon particulates which block the valve and cooler $2800 . . then overheating and pump, mass flywheel, etc $9881-30 expensive.

I'm not a mechanic

I wouldn't know. I own a 2015 model and have only had it for 6 months.

On the left above the battery. 2 spring clips