Sennheiser RS 120 Questions & Answers

Allan,
The red light is illuminated with a steady continuous beam.
I don't experience any static.
Hazza

I've found that some new Samsung Tvs are not being supplied the traditional 3.5mm analogue headphone audio outputs. Rather, they have have been substituting them with digital optical audio outputs. Does your new Samsung TV have an optical audio output? If yes then you will need to purchase an adapter. See adapter needed and setup instructions that I have posted in this Samsung user forum post. https://us.community.samsung.com/t5/forums/v3_1/forumtopicpage/board-id/tv/page/3/thread-id/23338

The problem is now that I can have TV speaker sound or headphone sound. I can not have both sounds. So either we watch TV with subtitles because my wife has the hearing problem and I keep the speaker sound turned down to normal or my wife uses the headphones and I read the subtitles. Not a good situation . is there a way that I can have both?

When the input volume is too low the green light goes out and the sound in the RS120II is cut off. Increment the input volume (on the TV set).

I am Not sure what you are asking for ideas about?
My understanding Green upper = Powered & useable. Red lower = Recharging headset.
Dropped hdphs a few times an now getting lil crackling noises and less distance frequently. As if loose connection inside earpieces = treat c care as a bit fragile.

There are three channels (thus the switch) and I kept it on the first one and it works fine.

...and I keep it set to the second position and it works fine.
I think it does not really matter.
Choose any position - it it works, leave it there.
If you have inexplicable interference (i.e. disturbances) cause by another signal source using the same or similar frequencies you just choose any of the other 2 channels and hopefully this solves the problem. Obviously you have to tune the headset via the TUNE wheel to that new channel to correspond with it.

Thank you so much!! I really appreciate your prompt responses to my question.

Did you do everything explained in the manual? E.g. plug in sender (into power and into signal source outlet --> The CORRECT signal source outlet) and used the TUNE wheel on the headset AND used the volume wheel on the headset (maybe its set down to Volume 0) and did you try the TUNE wheel on any of the 3 channels of the sender?
PS: If you mean by "very bad buzzing" the very loud static white noise, it suggests that the sender does not receive an input signal.

You can try the following:
Do you have the same problem, when you put the connector of the sender into another audio-output?
If not, the problem lies with the source, which generates the audio.
But if the same problem persists, try bending the cable from the connector to the sender carefully a little bit - if this creates sound-dropouts, this cable is broken (at the position, where you can replicate the fault, while bending it slightly).

If I understand correctly, you have 2 headsets, one connected to one TV (no echo), and another connected to another TV (echo).
I recommend swapping the headset-units (sender and receiver) between the 2 TV.
I suspect, that the echo stays with the same TV - and not with the same headset.
Reason: The only explanation I have, is that the TV with the echo sends out the signal to the headset-plug with a time-delay towards the inbuild speaker. Normally you would not notice that something is wrong, if you listen to either headset or speaker, but you would notice if you have them both turned on, which you would normally not do...
And maybe the TV with the echo is some fancy TV, where you can adjust sound-features, which as a side effect cause that delay.

The bang is usually caused because of an FM signal interference, if the engineers said that there is nothing wrong, you shouldn't worry about it. Signal interference is the main cause of these headphones bangs, hissing type noises which are very common, my headphones do this sometimes, and all I do is tune them back into the transmitter and all is well. Hope this helps.

I am not familiar with your model. I would guess that there would be a separate charger just like a phone charger

Are you sure that the headphones that you are describing are the RS120 or the RS120 II? As the only Sennheiser that are similar to the RS120's are the RS110 which are a none rechargeable model and you have to replace the batteries when they go flat.

Are you sure it's not connected?
Mine is exactly the same and yep i thought it wasn't connected but it is.
Appears to be std for this model, so not well designed power socket or plug.

It is connected via RCA or standard 3.5mm plug so will fit all televisions. It would have to plug into the headphone socket on your iPad, so kind of defeats the purpose of having wireless headphones when you're sitting so close to your pad you could just have wired headphones anyway...

In short, pretty much any device that can output sound via large headphone jack, small headphone jack or RCA ports (red and white plugs) will work.