Cabot's Cabothane Clear Oil Based Questions & Answers (page 2 of 3)

Hi Kentia,
Whilst CFP Water Based will adhere to the oil based, the bottom coat will need to be completely cured prior to applying the top coat. Allow 7 days for full curing - longer if it's humid. Prior to coating the whole floor with the water based top, be sure to test adhesion with a small test patch. Finally, you will need to apply at least 2 coats of the water based top coat for it to build a protective film.
Regards,
The Cabot's Team

Hi Michael,
You'll need a paint stripper to get Cabothane off once it has dried.
Good luck,
The Cabot's Team

Hi Alan,
Thanks for your question.

We do not recommend applying any of our products in temperatures greater than 35 degrees Celsius. We suggest waiting for a cooler day to apply Cabothane.
Please call us on 1800 011 006 if you'd like to discuss further.

Cabot's

Hi Sam,
Cabothane Oil Based can be thinned with Mineral Turpentine. It does not need to be thinned, however there's no problem in doing so. You'll be diluting the amount of product being applied, so sheen level will be reduced. An additional coat might be required to bring product back to sheen level purchased.
Call us if you'd like to discuss further on 1800 011 006.

Cabot's

Hi Endzi,
We'd recommend using Cabothane Water Based in your preferred sheen. Please test on a small area or a test panel to make sure it does not have any ill effect on your painting. Cabothane is not an exterior coating, and should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Cabothane is only recommended for outdoor use if the area is undercover and sheltered from the elements. Please call us if you'd like to discuss further on 1800 011 006.

Cabot's

Hi Richard,
Couple things here.
Cabothane should be OK to apply on top of CFP (provided they're both the oil based variants and the CFP is fully dry). If the flooring has wrinkled after the Cabothane application, our best guess is that the CFP was not fully dried.
Secondly, Cabothane is not a walk on appropriate product, it should not be used on floors.

Could you please call us on 1800 011 006 (NZ 0800 222 687), we'll see how we can help.

Cabot's

Hi Matt,
Thanks for contacting the DIY nerds!
Just quickly, the term 'lacquering' refers to using a very specific way of applying Shellac - a coating made from the excretions of the Lac Beetle. Let's assume you're not doing that for the sake of answering the question.
Cabothane Oil Based is an OK choice for your fingerboard, however for future, you might want to look at Cabot's Danish Oil. Cabothane will film build a little on the surface of your finger board, Danish Oil will penetrate in, protecting from within.
Regardless of which product you use, to get a super smooth finish isn't super complicated. There might be some trial and error here, so perhaps test on an off-cut?
Start by sanding your piece smooth (240g), remove the sanding dust and apply your coating using a brush/rag. Depending on how much it penetrates, wipe off the excess before it gets tacky (around 30 mins), leave to dry. The colours and features of the timer board should be highlighted now by the oil. Sand again, with 600g sand paper and repeat the process. You can work your way up to 2000g sand paper if you like. Once you've got it as smooth as you can with sand paper, you can go even further and burnish the piece using the BACK of the sand paper (assuming you're using normal, paperback sandpaper). At this point you're effectively polishing, and this should yield high gloss levels if you persist.
Make sure you trial on another piece to ensure you're happy with the finish - and to get the hang of the technique.

Call us on 1800 011 006 if you'd like to discuss further.

Cabot's

Hi Thomas,
Thanks for your question.
There is no need to dilute Cabothane when applying with a brush. It's not something we recommend.

We cannot comment on other manufacture's mask suitability, however we do recommend applying in a well ventilated area, following label instructions.

Call us on 1800 011 006 if you have any further questions.

Cabot's

Hi Rob,
Thanks for your questions.

We would say around 10 days for it to be fully cured. While 90% of the curing might be done in the first few days, that last % can take a little longer.

Please call us if you'd like further advice on 1800 011 006.

Cabot's

Hi Heidel,
Provided Cabothane has fully cured, you should be OK to apply an Epoxy Resin or similar.

We would suggest doing your best to remove the Cabothane, the easiest method being sanding. We'd suggest getting off as much as you can, this will allow the best looking result for your Epoxy.

Call us if you'd like to discuss further on 1800 011 006.

Cabot's

Hi Keith,

Thanks for your question.

Please do not use Cabothane on flooring. It is not a walk on appropriate coating. Cabothane is for interior furniture only.

You will need CFP Oil Based for your flooring.

Please call us to discuss on 1800 011 006.

Cabot's

Hi Liam,

If it is a newly made dining table ensure all dust is removed and the table is clean and ready for coating. I would then recommend using Cabot's CFP Floor Water Based which is a highly durable, hard wearing and fast drying finish.

Good luck with your project!

- Cabot's

Hi Dian,

Thanks for your question.

We always keep any eye on Product Review - but sometimes we can't get to all your questions in the same day. So we do apologies for the wait.

Cabothane would be perfect for your project. Provided it is fully cured, it should withstand your tea and icy drinks.

We recommend waiting 7 days for the curing process to fully take place.

If you have any further questions, please call us on 1800 011 006.

Cabot's