Mitsubishi Express 1986-2005 Questions & Answers (page 2 of 10)

Star wagon. Express. Triton 2.4, Great Wall V240. All the same motor.
4G63=2 litre
4G64=2.4
Older models have distributor/coil ignition (pre '04 I think. Coil packs after that) If you just buy the long motor and fit your own running gear - no problem.
Later models had 24 valve. '99's in 2.4 were 24 valve head.

You'll be sorry you asked. They built the car around the booster. On the firewall behind everything else!

Thanks . The firewall being where ??

Behind steering column, dash, radio, instrument cluster, steering wheel. All that stuff has to be removed in my opinion. $500 at least I reckon for someone else to do it. Weekend job if DIY.
Huge unit too. Never seen one that big that applied least effort. See if you can adjust the pushrod when you get it out. Maybe the vans will brake a bit better...
Not so much a firewall on a forward control vehicle. Front panel? Apron.

Sikkaflex pro.

Gearbox.

Dashboard

I know they are on the dashboard I want to know when they light up there is one I don't know what it's for it's a circle with a question mark in it, I haven't got a hand book,I see the battery,water and petrol but the other????

You need to be bit more specific when you come here seeking knowledge.
My vans are pre-2006 which is about when they did significant upgrades to the electronics on the ignition and onboard diagnostics.
I don't have any personal experience with those engine management warning systems. However, the driver next to me did.
He ran his van on gas and from time to time and it would show that light. Something to do with the the O2 sensor. Nothing that running the car on 98 for a while could not fix.
For a more detailed explanation, refer to more recent posts regarding 'engine light'.

Tach**

10k ohm resistor on tach feed prior to a glowshift tachometer filter then switch to 8 cylinder mode and shes all sorted.

Couple of relays behind glove box. Mounted up beside wiper motor. Both the same type. One is starter motor. The other may be your suspect.

Hi sometimes my 94 model sliding door wont open, found that if not on good level ground it will stick, may be worth looking at

For a quick fix, bash the outside door skin near the outside key lock with the palm of your hand. This usually frees the linkages.
If problem persists you are going to have to bite the bullet, remove the internal masonite and spray linkages with molytec multi purpose grease (or similar but not WD40 or CRC556).
I use molytec on the roller tracks and top and bottom roller bearings periodically. They glide after an application!

I just took 2 screws out the side and pulled the plastic thing off, easier than ripping the inside door cover completely off

If you keep the key in the barrell on the sliding door and spin it side to side youll see what parts need lubricating through the hole... I sprayed a bunch of wd40 anti friction dry lube in there whilst spinning key side to side at same time and its like new now. Sure beats bashing the door 50 times a day with your palm to free it up (Im sure any generic lubricant will work but this is just what I had on hand)

throw the carby away and get a holie or something other than original

Nah. Get a 2.4.
16 valve OHC. Cross flow head. Electronic ignition. Multi point efi. 530 klms to a tank. Power steer. Hydraulic clutch. Doors both sides. Gets rubber in every gear. Goes like a scalded cat! Take your mates who own Lite Aces for a lap around the block and watch them hanging onto the grab rails and wetting themselves.
Probably get a straight one for 2k.

Or rinse the PCV valve in petrol...

again try carby

Coil.
May be going 'open circuit' on the primary when it gets hot.
Must be tested with the ohm meter when it gets hot or returns a false reading.

Pull the PCV valve and rinse in petrol

good morning hardball, thankyou for the feedback have done that, everything fine. is there a fuel mix/adjustment on the carby itself, everyone says no. but i can see a small screw with a spring fitted just below the larger white idle adjustment. motor running smooth as.?

Idle circuit is the first 1/3 of throttle which is regulated by idle adjustment screw, depending on where you are in the throttle range.
At idle, mixture is totally regulated by idle circuit. This you can adjust.
As throttle proceeds from 1/3 to 2/3 throttle, fuel mixture is largely depedent on size of main jet.
That is why 'everybody' says mixture in mid range cannot be altered. It can, but not on the fly. Means disassembly of carb and trying other jet sizes.
Bear in mind there is transition from one stage to another, so as throttle progresses from 1/3 to 2/3, idle circuit plays a less inportant role in fuel delivery as main jet starts to allow fuel to be sucked through it playing a more progressive role in fuel delivery.
If you are continuing to have issues, pull the air filter. If smell of petrol goes away, guess what? You need new air filter.
Blowing with compressed air won't help if you've let them go to the stage where they are saturated with dust.

Thats a fairly old model, even by my terms.
Try 1300854858 Mitsispares.
What he doesn't know you could carve into the back of an ashtray with an axe!

Carb'd?

It's EFI

Dunno.
Try removing air filter. If smoke stops it was running rich and filter needs clean /replacement.
Costs ya nuthin' to try.
You can buy the plug in bluetooth diagnostics cheap these days. Not sure if something that far back supports it. See if there's a port just in front of fusebox above brake pedal thats screwed to bottom of dash. Has about 6 wires going into the back of it. Its about a 24 port connector.
Color of smoke?
Blue its oil. Motor is f*****d.
White it's steam. Done a head gasket. Once again, motor is f*****d.
Black it's overfueling. Needs air filter.

Is that the 'black box' that sits underneath the relays for the rear demister and the blinker can? I wondered what that was. If so, directly above accelerator pedal. Looks like an oversize relay. Take a small led torch with you.
You can sort of access that side by removing driver's side speaker but you will still get a few scrapes along the way. Tight access but at least that way you can see what you're doing.
Up and under from underneath to replace a blinker can is done by touch. I've done it. Just requires skill. And contortionist like flexibility.

Thanks for your reply.. I found them, they are on the battery terminal.

Oops!
Pointed you in the direction of the ECU unit.
I'm not aware those units on battery terminal are relays. More like non-fusible links. There are two relays up behind dash. You have to remove glovebox to access them. Mounted on bracket behind wiper motor. One relay is starter motor but not sure what the other switches. Something to do with ignition circuit. 6 screws and glovebox pulls out.