Mitsubishi Express Questions & Answers (page 2 of 18)

Don't know. Tried some seats with electric everything - including tilt. Very comfortable. Only problem was I couldn't close the door!
Plan B. Took the original out and took to my upholsterer with directions to "double pack" it. Usual cost is ~$80. In saying that, last one cost me $160 but I had the trim and piping done as well as the trim had started to seperate. Mind you, seat has been repacked twice before so unless you have original meterial it's going to.be nearer the $80. They do cost more the first time if the upholsterer has to replace original fabric with a quality, long wearing replacement and then do the piping to match the rest of the interior.
At the end of the day you end up with a really good product - a seat with springs not memory foam. You will feel the seat springs flexing as you drive over minor undulations when it's done right and the seat is guarunteed to bolt back in.

Thanks i will look into that

Double foam on the backrest too. Crank the lumbar support all the way forward after a repack and your back pain just gradually disappears to the point where one day you realize that you're cured!

Carb'd or efi? Original leads? How long have the same plugs been in it? Distributor or coil packs? What is fuel pressure like? When was air filter last cleaned?

Oh yeah. Forgot to ask. Original size battery? Hard to start. Slow cranking or slow ignition? What is battery terminal voltage when cranking?
Engine missing under load is usually an indicator that you are perservering with those crappy 6mm OEM high tension spark plug leads. But situation is not helped if you are not maintaining spark plug gaps @ about hacksaw blade width.
- Pull your plugs & gap correctly.
- Buy a set of Eagle blue 8mm leads for $45 on mebay.
- Fit an 11 plate holden battery.
Sorted.

Hey, much appreciated, will check plugs & leads

Isn't the replacement single DIN? I use keys that the radio installers use to pop the radio out of the din bracket. Jigsaw blade down each side of the radio might pop it if they are not too thick. Couple of short lengths of a broken bandsaw blade would do it - especially a metal cutting blade.
Otherwise wiggle the radio and the single din bracket out together and using a fine flat tip screwdriver pop the spring clips that prevent the radio from coming out of the din bracket.

hi Yes replacement is 1din, but the din cage is not big enough, also the Mitsubishi bracket screws into the old radio, which means cage is no good, looks like i will have to re-drill brackets so they can fitted onto the new radio, new radio is only half the depth of old one as they don't have cd players any more, not hard just annoying in this plug and play world,

That would explain why I have seen other drivers mount aftermarket radios on their own brackets, underneath the ashtray. Their argument is that they will take the radio with them when they sell the vehicle.

$2 funnel from Supercheap auto. Has a 1/2 metre flexible extension that inserts into the dipstick tube.
Not sure where the dipstick is for the autos. Try Alan. He might know....Will be under the engine cover somewhere.

Thank you for the help really appreciate it but the gear box is now stuffed so need to change it so u know what years express I can use to try and find a new gear box mine is a 2005 express there hard to find in Western Australia

Mitsi spares somewhere in Melb. What he doesnt know can be carved into the back of an ashtray with an axe! Sends frt with Couriers Pls when it's small stuff for $25 (tailshaft). I'll look up the number.

Pull.
If that doesn't work come down to our depot where the Rapid Rise curtain door can remove them for free!

Our curtain removes them for free. Doesn't replace them unfortunately.

Fusebox above accelerator pedal. About 3rd from top left as I recall.

Hellooooo?
Earth to Mars. Anyone home?

PCV valve.

Thanks a lot for your reply Oddball! I will talk to the mechanic about this and let you all know if it worked. What would be the estimated cost for repairing this?

Again, thanks a lot for replying.

Oddball eh? Charlie, something tells me you and I are going to be the best of buddies. But back to your dilemma....
About 2c if DIY.
BBH (big black hose) from carb to top of engine has a fitting on the end of the hose where it pushes into rocker cover. Remove that elbow and drop it into a small can of petrol and shake for 20 seconds. Refit. Hose connections get a bit "howdy doody" over time. If that is the case, cut the end off the hose as it can suck air. Ziplocks fix just about everything.
"If it can't be ziplocked, use duct tape!"
Pour the petrol from the can over the engine and light it and buy a 2.4
Just kidding. Brush the petrol over the engine cover then hose off. No sense in wasting the petrol.

Relay(s) behind glovebox. Starter motor and (I presume, never tested this) fuel pump relays/solenoids. Both relays are the same. Good luck. Go forth with more than an entry level multimeter in hand..

Thanks I've looked behind the glovebox and can't find anything, both Mitsubishi and Repco don't have a fuel pump relay on their parts list for this vehicle

Snapped mine @ 220 k and cost me an engine. Due for a rebuild anyway so I wasn't crying for the $100 for a 2nd hand engine that I could rebuild/reco.
Alan currently holds the record for belts. I think he said it was 370k but you better check with him.
Usually the limit with rebuilds is about 350 k's as clutch life is about that and down to rivets by then and engine is blowing smoke (oil rings). Same with autos. You would be down to brass on your clutch packs at that mileage so you reco engine and transmission/clutch at the same time.
As for warnings, it's a red light indicating zero oil pressure after the event as oil pump is belt driven. By the time the light goes on your valve stems are bent as it's an interference engine.
Manufacturer recommended interval is 100k. Snap at 200k+. Most people change at about 150k which is halfway betwen the two.

Pump in tank.
As far as fuse goes, dunno. Relay behind glovebox. One is starter motor but both the same.

Is the location of relay the same in a 2004 express?

Burning smell probably clutch.
As for running it out of oil & water - I can't think of a quicker way to kill a motor. Unless you do both at the same time of course.
If you are competent with a bit of DIY, buy a compression tester gauge. They screw into spark plug holes.
Yep, you will have to remove the air breather to do this but it's like two clamps. If it still has the security bolt holding it - throw it in your spares box. That's just something else to slow ya down if you need to inspect/change plugs and/or degrease engine at pre rego time.
Once plugs are all removed (tip. Get that long reach grabber with the flexible shaft before you start - you are going to need it. A magnetic pick up is handy too. Keep them in the top of toolbox) then insert compression gauge in each cyl and crank with WOT. Note compression on each cyl. All should be I dunno around 120psi? Depends on your motor.
If all are low and/or there is wide variance in readings only cure is another engine. Usually from around $700 plus about $500 to do the changeover but I've had em done on two days and was driving it home on the third.
You can reco if bores are not too badly scored but price for a kit is about $1,100 plus labour = $2k, no clutch or radiator. Maybe $1,800 if yours is not complicated with add ons like gas.
A reco with oversize pistons is my reccommendation. It's only 50cc over but that additional compression ratio makes all the difference. I had a 2.4 done and spent the next 12 months pursuing Bob Jane and everyone else to tell me why their tyres were rubbish that kept spinning! Wasn't their tyres. That van is still a goer that takes down Harley's from a standing start (unladen).

Star wagon. Express. Triton 2.4, Great Wall V240. All the same motor.
4G63=2 litre
4G64=2.4
Older models have distributor/coil ignition (pre '04 I think. Coil packs after that) If you just buy the long motor and fit your own running gear - no problem.
Later models had 24 valve. '99's in 2.4 were 24 valve head.

You'll be sorry you asked. They built the car around the booster. On the firewall behind everything else!

Thanks . The firewall being where ??

Behind steering column, dash, radio, instrument cluster, steering wheel. All that stuff has to be removed in my opinion. $500 at least I reckon for someone else to do it. Weekend job if DIY.
Huge unit too. Never seen one that big that applied least effort. See if you can adjust the pushrod when you get it out. Maybe the vans will brake a bit better...
Not so much a firewall on a forward control vehicle. Front panel? Apron.

That problem is easier than it looks. It is almost always the sending unit. Mitsi Spares if you are in trouble.

Are you able to describe where the sending unit is? Id like to fix this myself but YouTube doesnt seem to have many videos on the express. whats a Mitsi spare? Sorry from US. Im not familiar with all auzzie slang yet.

My apologies and welcome to the forum. Not sure, never fixed one myself, but they are normally screwed into the thermostat housing. Get your sender unit from a car breaker. A couple of turns of thread tape around the new unit when you screw it to place. Mitsi Spares is the name of a local breaker that we use here. What he doesn't know about mitsy's, you could carve into the back of an ashtray with an axe.