Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 Questions & Answers

If Toyota recommends 10W-30 synthetic then it must be right, if it recommends mineral oil or semi synthetic then that is what you should use, as the Toyota Camry is not a turbo powered diesel or petrol engine so always stick with what the manufacturer recommends as that is the best engine oil or lubricant for your vehicle e.g. with my Citroen C4 eHDi B7 2012 which is a turbo diesel, Citroen recommends to only use 5W-30 synthetic oil and NOT the 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic,

This is what viscosity really means e.g. in a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance. The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required. That is about it, hope this helps, cheers.

i have an 09 camry,i use 5w40 in mine,or 10w40.
The 10w30 crap toyota use makes a ticking noise in the cam buckets.
Use a 5w40 or a 10w40,there's no harm in it.

how often do I require to replace it

This NULON 5W-30 & 40 synthetic oil suits all turbo vehicles of either petrol (5W-40) or diesel (5W-30) engined vehicles, on my turbo diesel vehicle its recommended to change the oil filter and oil at an interval of 10,000 kms with a 5W-30, check your vehicles viscosity listing and kilometrage change of oil and filter as it could be different! All in all the Nulon, Penrite and Gulf Western are all great Aussie synthetic oils and I've used them extensively for over 10 years without any wear and/or trouble on my diesel engines,

I would use 10w40 as it's quite old car

Yes, 5w/30 is for newer models. it is a very thin oil. I would recommend 10w/40 also as it is an older car. Bugbuyer Lee

I ran 5w30 synthetic in a vehicle that covered 280,000km...no oil loss was evident. If the vehicle has been treated well over it's life, compression should be ok, but not all engines are to he same.

Use a heavier oil, like 10w40 if you notice oil consumption.

Yes, if you go to Nulon website under Lube Guide.

You always follow your car manual guide. Both my cars change oil 6 months or 10,000km. The oil company can put whatever they want in the bottle.

For the EJ20 motor I would recommend Nulon Fully Synthetic 0/40 High performance engine oil. Adding Nulon E20 additive will make it even smoother and quieter. I have had only good experiences using Nulon products over about 30 years now.

Sorry, I'm unqualified to answer. Been using it only a short time and unaware of any problems, but that would be the same comment for any oil, maybe even peanut oil! I was pretty sure that another brand was oiling my plugs years ago, and certainly Nulon doesn't do that, but neither do other brands. Anecdotal evidence, if it's true, like truth tester, may carry some weight. The specs on an oil should be sufficient, but I'm cautious. That's about the best non-answer I can give.

Sorry Truth Tester but 0w/40 is like water and for a subaru engine with 235,000km I definitely wouldn't run that in a customer's car. I'd be running a 10w/40

The Nulon 5W-30 is every bit as good as the Shell OEM specced oil.
I would recommend the Nulon oil as I use it in my wife's Mazda 3 MPS turbo and it has run really well with great economy and less engine noise. Give it a try, you won't look back!

You should ask Nulon representative or go to super cheap auto, they have the device at the oil section that you can check the best option for your car

Super cheap would prefer to sell me there own brand the Chief oil, I don't think that was a helpful response

You will find what you need on this site!http://www.nulon.com.au/products/by-specs

since the jags got a bit of age, i reckon 10-40 is the way to go. dont stress about it too much, frequently changing the oil is far more important than the quality of oil, a mineral oil would be fine since we dont get subject to sub zero temperatures (thats when having synthetic matters). nulon 10-40 is perfect for it, synthetic or mineral is fine. just do oil changes twice as frequently than you would with synthetic.

You can either use 15W40 or 10W30. If you can get your hands a workshop manual for your car it give you proper info on what oliviscosity your car can use.

In my Hiace (2006) manual it says that I can use 10W30, 15W40 and so on. My van has done just over 193000 and when I serviced it, I used a fully synthetic oil. Been driving it everyday to work and been checking the oil level every other day after the service (19th of April @191715) for the 2 weeks and gradually went to every 4 to 5 days.

I can't see any issues or hear any odd noise in the engine whenever I drive it. It's really up to you what brand/type oil you want to use. I only started using synthetic because for once I want look after my van and buy some good oil.

Bare in mind that nothing wrong using the traditional mineral based oil for any car. The only advantage of using synthetic is longer service intervals in my opinion.

To answer your question, I would recommend the Nulon 5W30 fully synthetic. It's a little dearer than your normal oil but for me It's worth the money. There are even dearer ones than the Nulon. It's I'm impressed with Nulon so far.

Thanks Lewy and Joseph I change my oil and filter every 7500 kms and will stick to the 10w 40 for the Jag probably use the Semi synthetic Nulon and probably the 15w 40 mineral for the Territory.

Go with the Euro. If you read the product details, the euro has PAO (polyalphaolefin) as one of the base components. PAO is base IV. Many years ago, only PAO-based or ester-based could be called "synthetic oil". Now, many synthetic oils use cracked mineral oil (base III) as the base. However, in Germany, they still adhere to this strict old-schooled definition of synthetic oil, hence (I assume) where the "euro" label comes from.

You may probably notice that the euro version is more expensive than the long life version. That's because of PAO. PAO is more expensive than cracked petroleum mineral oil. This is also the main reason why synthetic oil manufacturers switch from base IV or V to base III.

Hope this helps.