Wattyl Killrust Questions & Answers (page 4 of 6)
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Hi. Can you add a hardner to this wattyl killrust epoxy gloss emamel?
Can I paint a dulux weathershield acrylic external low sheen over the wattyl kill rust cold galvit
If it's enamel, probably not without an an acrylic primer first (unless it states it's fine ont he tin) to see how it bonds, then if okay apply your top coat. If you're painting steel, I don't reccomend using Acrylic paint at all. Use kill rust or an enamel if you can, you will thank me in 10+ years. If you can't, then sure, I get it, water based is so much easier to use on larger areas etc. But if you can, spray or roll on oil based and it will last much longer and protect underneith.
can the kill rust epoxy enamel be used as a heat resistant paint what temperature can it withstand? planing to use it for automotive reasons
Is there a way to dry killrust gloss black fairly quickly?
Is there a single application paint for painting galvanised steel ?
That is no etch primer required ?
You should use etch primer on gal if you can. Even killrust won't stick to gal that well, nothing does that's the point of Gal to prevent rust, but the downside is getting finishes to stick long term. You could prime it and it still flakes, so entirely up to you. If you can, I would first as it should reduce flaking. With anything Gal, just keep in mind it will probably always flake, but never seriously rust. give it a very light sand and a wax/grease remove for best results.
Is there a single application paint for galvanised steel. That is no primer required ?
Is killrust available in satin finish
why is wattyl killrust gloss delicious red taking so long to dry
The longer it dries, the better the gloss is and the longer it will last. Most quick dry paints (excluding 2k paints) only last about 2 years, where as you should get 7-10 out of that. Might be able to add an epoxy hardner to speed it up, but as exothermic best left for warmer conditions too.
I am wanting to repurpose an old cast iron clawfoot bath as a water feature on an open verandah. I am desperate to paint the inside of the bath black, whilst leaving the gorgeous exterior rust patina as is. It doesn't seem as though such a thing as black tub/ basin paint exists- I can only find white. Would this product be suitable for use?
Hi, what did you end up using?
i want to know if it is safe to paint a bath heated by a gas burner underneath so the flame would be on the paint ? re emmissions
What clear gloss paint can I spray over Killrust Epoxy, to give it extra "depth" and shine - have used Acrylic clear {on small sample} and it reacts by "crinkling". Any suggestions? Thanks. Tom.
You can't mix acrylic and enamel. You simply need an enamel clear, or 2K clear might work also if spraying.
Can it work with aluminium ?
Yes as a topcoat. Needs an etch primer over the aluminium first, and I have no faith in any hardware store etch prime.. If you can get to a Wattyl trade centre then super etch either spray can or brush on is so far above any other. Why Wattyl will restrict this to trade only outlet (anyone can buy) and sell the ordinary stuff no better than the other brands in retail is a mystery that only marketing scum can answer.
I am painting a 2nd hand camper trailer A frame/drawer bar and tool box that had been badly chipped by flying gravel, then I suspect had a dunking in salt water. The result was surface rust in the dents left by the stones, with a bit of creep (<3mm from the chips) into surrounding paint that was only visible after sanding back.
I took the badly chipped areas back to bright metal with a 3M scouring wheel, but there was still a bit of rust in the bottom of the chip dents that I couldn’t sand out, and a few chips in remaining areas of otherwise sound paint. On advice from local paint shop I applied Rust Eeter as per instructions over the whole thing - bright metal and remaining painted areas and chips - then Kill Rust Heavy Duty Primer after >24hours. All looked OK up to this point. I top coated with Epoxy Enamel after about 24 hours and at this point things went wrong. The enamel crazed almost immediately over most of the A Frame, but not the toolbox (which had about 70% original paint coverage), and areas remained sticky to touch for over a week, at which point I wiped it off with turps soaked rags. The toolbox appeared to have cured so at this point I put a 2nd topcoat... and it crazed! I waited another week, sanded it lightly, then tried another coat as a test, and it was fine. The crazing appeared to be worst where the Rust Eeter went over the original paint, but it also affected bright metal areas, and the effect was not consistent ie. the first topcoat went on the toolbox, which had Rust Eeter over original paint under the HD primer, without crazing.
I called the Wattyl Tech Help line yesterday, and was advised that Rust Eeter and HD Primer should not be applied over old paint, but that was not clear to me in the instructions. I presume it was user error on my part, but I wanted to check - does this sound right to others here?
Is it safe to paint a parrot's bird cage with kill rust paint. I'm mworried as they have a good bite on them
Ian & Sue
I have used rust kill 3 part system on a metal trailer. I used the converter on a small area then primed with the heavy duty primer all over. Gloss coated it. Turned it over to do the Same on the top. Where the primer has gone on the lightly sanded gloss it has reacted. Lifted the gloss in like crows feet. What do I do???
Have galvanised posts that I am wanting to paint. Do I need to do a primer before the kill rust or can it be used as a all in one type thing??
If you don’t mind the look of them just galvanised (as it will last longer left as is) then killrust can go straight over it. Let it dry a few days between coats.
As I am a metalworker, not a painter, this is just my observation.
Water based primers are slightly better than no primer. If you have access to a Wattyl trade centre, then super etch primer is the ultimate. They are available in wet paint or spray can. These are spirit based.
Before priming however, and even before a no-prime system, then pre-etch with cleaning vinegar. The ulimate pre treat is dilute phosphoric acid, but that is hard to find. If your galvanized is several years old and especially if it has a spangled, and matte look, then you can skip the acid wash stage.
As to using the final coat without some type of prep? No I wouldn't take the punt. And the fresher the galv., the more the prep.
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