Mitsubishi Pajero NS (2006-2008) Questions & Answers (page 2 of 4)

The centre ones should pop out using a thin butter knife or trim removal tool. Careful not to lose the white clips when removing s otherwise there whole centre surround had to come out.

For the side ones, remove the silver trim before the vent s well as the end panel with a thin tool first and then it is very obvious how the vent comes out.

Hope that helps,
Vlad

Sorry Bill I have not come across this problem before. I would suggest google the answer or have a yarn to your mitsubishi spare parts guy. He should be able to advise on this.

Hi Mark,
I have found that a really helpful resource for all things Pajero is a Facebook group called Pajero 4x4 Club Australia. It has heaps of members and people are asking questions like yours all the time and somebody always has an answer. Just hop onto Facebook, look up the group and request to join. They are a friendly mob.

It as all the features of my vrx and extras. Have fun.

I'm towing with the ns and haven't had a problem. The 09 lost the DPF which may have change towing capacity. I think they are the same auto. I'm no expert but do own one!

check the wheel bearings .

Have a 2012 Exceed - 40 000 kms - know problem of overheating of CD and GPS system - Mitsubishi just says issue with that model live with it. Wouldn't touch another Mitsubishi if you pay me as service is disgusting. Took it into dealer when it was burning hot - response yes it's dangerous, needs fixing, put it in to be done and response is known fault. Its live with it! $70,000 of rubbish

Petrol/Diesel? How many klms? Privately owned or company car? The answers to these are in important to know ultimately the quality of the vehicle. I'm a diesel man, petrol is good for the race track, the diesel will serve you better as an all round vehicle. You just need to consider 2 things with diesel, servicing and quality fuel. If it is a company car it might not have been treated with respect. The kilometres need to be no more then 200000, therefore you have some life to enjoy out of it. I would also suggest you get an inspection by one of the motoring groups (NRMA, RACQ, etc.) or professional mechanic.

Thank for the reply!!!
So essentially it is from a used car dealership leather interior roof racks tvs in head rest diesel 90k on odo not sure of the history eg been on sand four wheel driving etc really good interior clean tidily

Use an independent mechanic or Mitsubishi dealer to assess potential Mitsubishi vehicle. RACQ inspections are a joke, they will not offer opinion on a vehicle inspection, unlike a normal mechanical inspections. They inspected my mint 18 month old Subaru Outback with 24,000 km. When removing engine cover and undertray cover, lost 5 fasteners and failed to reassemble/locate correctly. To add insult to injury they noted missing fasteners they were responsible for and poor fitment... And yet were unable to offer buyer opinion on car, hopeless.

NT came out in 2009 and stretched to 2011. Check the compliance plate on the inside of the door.

Hi the compliance plate should give it away, or if you have the original service books issued to the original owner will also have the answer. If you still have not it yet check the VIN number with a Mitsubishi Dealer. Good Luck

2014 is NW

Hi is that a timing belt that it requires? If it is it depends on who is doing it. If a timing belt is required it is possible that you might a well do the water pump and replace the fan belt belt that also drives the AC and the Alternator. It also involves replacing the oil seal gaskets surrounding the timing belt cover. As you can see it could be quite involved, however if you decide to go ahead you should get a firm quote to avoid any nasty surprises. Good luck with it all. and get a second opinion.

You are a legend! Thank you so much for your input! You have convinces me to get a pre purchase check before I even consider buying this car. Thanx again!

I think that the car can have some transfer traits due to its Monocoque body with suspension bolted to the body and not via a chassis. This is evident when towing. The sounds of the trailer are transferred more than a chassis style 4x4. However, The suspension is good on pajero and Iv'e not had any such experiences as dash rattles/shake. On the contrary, I feel that it is all solid and I've enjoyed 3 different ones since 2000.
I haven't done a lot of corrugations though.
Happy hunting
Glen

Getting in and out of stanage bay Queensland is a mission with approx 100klm of corrugated dirt roads each way, this along with many many other dirty dusty and deep pot holes i have been through & the only problem i have ever had was one of the buttons on the GPS/Communication thing came off, i pushed it back on but came off again, but seriously if thats all i could find in the thousands of KLM i have done on dirt and rough roads then "Thumbs up" to the Pajero no complaints at all.

After countless klm on corrugated dirt roads giving it a good push the only problem ever so far is one of the buttons on the stereo came off along strange bay rd, I have had no complaints.

Suspects are:

1 EGR control valve - carbon build up, sticking valve, "lagging" behind control signal from the ECU. Clean, or as required, replace. Clean the inlet manifold every 30 to 50 thousand kays. Run decent fully-synthetic low ash engine oil, and change it every 7,500 kms. - keeps the carbon build-up under control, also makes your engine last longer.

2 Suction Control Valve - a vital part in the diesel fuel injection control system. Out of spec or worn SCV cause fuel pressure and fuel metering (flow) problems = bad idling, port running. Clean or replace. There is a high-spec version available. It is worth the extra cash as the engine runs better, for longer.

3 Dirty injectors. Clean or replace.

4 And for all modern turbo-diesels: Fit a 14 PSI pre-set mechanical turbo boost control ("dump") valve. If the factory ECU boost controller or turbo waste-gate play up, the pre-set boost control valve acts like a fuse, and stops the engine from being over boosted and damaged or destroyed. Better than a boost gauge, because it works even when you aren't staring at it.

1 EGR is blocked off in two places, running that oil and have breather catch can fitted.

2 Possible but there is no bad idling etc. and why turning cruise control off gets rid of the noise most times. Have made and fitted a restrictor in the hose before the turbo vane controller to try and dampen the suction signal, has not helped. Monitor fuel rail pressure but doesn't seem to be related to noise.

3 Runs fine, no smoke, rattle or bad idle, run Fuel Doctor every third tank, fuel economy is good.

4 Factory std. max. boost is 23 psi. and it doesn't over boost or spike, makes the noise below max. boost.

My 1997Pajero had similar problems and apparently there was something to do with oil. I never thought that one of the constant problems was the lack of the oil. I used to add less than needed… Luckily a friend of mine pointed out a connection btw the oil type, required amount, engine type and even THE YEAR of the car!
Later on I found a really useful table that has everything listed on it. You can use it for ur convenience too if u like)) here http://cararac.com/engine_oil/mitsubishi/shogun.html

Try the Mitsubishi Australia workshop or a mechanical repairs and servicing workshop

This a warning noise that the speed you are doing is too fast for the approaching corner/bend in the road - it links in with the GPS. It can be turned of in the GPS settings.

I'm no mechanic but with my experience I understand that they require valve adjustment every 30,000 ks. So if you bought it second hand, how many k's are on it? When was it serviced last? These later models are exceptionally quiet compared to the pre 2006 model. It is normal to have diesel rattle under strain though.
Cheers, Glen

Thank you very much fro your reply. I have bought the Pajero brand new and it now has only 2200km on the clock. The tapping noise seems very loud when i first start it but once warmed up it will dissipate a little. However, I have noticed it getting louder and louder the more i drive it. The car is under warranty so i know i am covered if anything is wrong with the vehicle.

I have a 2014 NX Exceed with the same noise from new, getting louder with age. Never fully disappears. Tried getting dealers to investigate, hopefully fix under warranty. All say "they all do that, it's characteristic of the model, no claim possible, live with it and enjoy". Tells me that MMAL expects us to accept faulty design & or production techniques & will not support what is a very good product to maintain a good reputation. May they suffer mightily. So do not buy from new. And get the most thorough check on 2nd hand. Reject at the slightest fault. Do not put any trust in "warranty". Colin

Hi bevis. Those trims seam to come off easily after putting up a fight. I've not tackled the door skin though. I have pulled a bunch off elsewhere to install electric brakes and driving lights. Recently I bought a set of trim removal tools for $10. They work wonders. and no damage. (trade tools Qld) So generally, I'd have thought that there would be some screws up under things or behind other trims that come away first. The Victorian Pajero club have a heap of threads on stuff that may help if you are still stuck.
Best of luck, Glen

We have an NW and have been to Fraser and even Cape York and quite a few other outback tracks. We didn't buy ours initially for off-roading but it ended up becoming a travelling off-road car.
We wrote a review a while ago now titled "After 12months and 45,000 km travelling around Australia"
We now have 60k on it with no major mechanical issues. Some key points we have found in off-road situations with our NW. Replace the tyres as the standard ones are complete rubbish. We went for Bridgestone Dueller 697's as they are good on dirt and rocky roads plus can handle sand without being a total ST and MT tyre. Also the standard suspension and springs also needs replacing as well. ARB or TJM can fit some with about a 40-50mm lift for a little over $2000. Other than those basics weve fitted quite a few other things including a Long Ranger fuel tank as the standard 88 litres just isn't enough. As we stated in our review the dash on corrugations moves quite a lot as well but so far it lasted.
If money isn't an issue I would go for a Landcruiser but as we said in the review if you can deal with the negatives its got us to some pretty remote locations. Hope that helps.

Hi Danny, we have a 2007, 2008 registered Pajero VRX, blue, 180k on clock, looking to trade it in for a new Pajero but also considering selling private, asking 16k plus any costs if it needed something for RWC. Has new tyres just fitted, full service history at local Mitsibishi garage, Ballarat, Dave 0429133436.

It's a bracket that attaches to the spare wheel holder.
The spare wheel is then put on this bracket, effectively raising the height of the spare wheel, hopefully higher than the caravan hitching ball, when you are towing.The idea is that the spare tyre on the back door will then be higher than the tow hitch assembly & miss it when you open the back door.
Dealer cost is less than $100. There are plenty of home made ones about, if you are at all handy.

ns pajero had dpf issues that surfaced if they were driven on short drives . This was rectified from nt 2009 onwards, so nx will be no problem

Thanks Kim. I asked a few good mitsubishi mechanics and they all have same opinion as yours. These days (MY15 onwards at the least) there are no issues with Mitsubishi Pajero's DPF filters because of advancement in technologies and lessons learned in past. So it should be okay for even lots of short trips. I've put deposit down for this now and put review after a year of driving here :)

I have a 2011 pajero and it is a rust bucket that Mitsubishi is not will to fix, I have rust in all the doors including the rear door, I would strongly suggest you look elsewhere.

I have a 2011 pajero and it is a rust bucket that Mitsubishi is not will to fix, I have rust in all the doors including the rear door, I would strongly suggest you look elsewhere.

http://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t47442372/pajero-owners-rust-warning/

I take it you mean the anchor extension belt?
I found one of mine a few years ago at Baby Bunting, about $35. i thought it was a little steep at the time. I have also purchased one at the RACV shop, one that does the fittings of car seats.
The other option would be contact an authorised child seat installer, there are heaps around

No it is that actual back seatbelt, it really doesn't come out. The one that pulls out of the wall over the booster seat is great but when trying to get it into the clip on the back seat, that clip keeps going back into the seat and you can't get it out. So I need a extension?

I use a booster seat without anchoring point. It only requires normal seat belt function that a grown up usually uses. http://www.target.com.au/p/hipod-rio-booster-mink-pink/55620789. This ones are legally sold in Australia by Target and damn easy to use any row of a mitsubishi pajero. I read NSW booster seat laws and it mentioned that if no anchoring point in the seat then no need for it so it should be a nice solution. Only $69.

You could try to ask Mitsubishi Australia that question