Kubota Z122E Questions & Answers

Mower went dead like kill switch engaged

Just purchased the same mower and 1/2hr later the belts fraying to the point it can't be used. Did you have any luck rectifying the issue with yours??

Kubota will not acknowledge their little Z122R has belt issues. Mine has 30 hours on it and I’ve had it back to the dealership 4 times now for the same problem... it either throws the belt or breaks it. There are many complaints about this online. Dealer told me this time Kubota sent them a new parts kit that included new pulleys, tensioner and belt. Willing to give it one more try. If it fails again I’m trading it in on a 48inch and somebody else can deal with the problem. As a side note the dealership told me they have sold a dozen Z122’s and mine is the only one with this problem!

Some of the Z122’s have belt/pulley/tensioner issues. I’ve had mine back to the dealership 4 times for the same problem. (Only 30 hours on it) Kubota does not recognize there are problems with it. They finally replaced all the parts on the deck. I just got it back and willing to give it one more try. If it fails again, it’s going back for good!

Is there good tension on Deck belt

I have no electrical power to it start the engine the battery tested great on the z122e pass with flying colors tested the switches the brake switch the two levers switches the seat switch all of them are working but I have no power to the fuse panel and got no power anywhere but the positive cable coming from the battery to the solenoid it will not crank over attested the relays the relays both passed they both are function on

Have you checked the Brake is engaged and driver bars are up correctly?

To me that sounds like dirty fuel, maybe water. Happened to me after heavy rain. Drained petrol and changed fuel filter resolved the issue. It's about were your bought your fuel.

Try using a can of SeaFoam every time you fill the gas tank, and use only Marine grade gas - no ethanol. I have had the same problem since I got it a few years back. Kawasaki FR651V engine. Got to where it refused to run at idle, would die. And surged a lot at lower speeds. The SeaFoam helps, so far. Other issues too. Phantom electrical problems with ignition and hand brake. Sometimes they work, sometimes not. With hand brake on and pto off, you should be able to get out of seat to do stuff and engine continues to run. Mine has stopped doing that. It dies when I get out of seat. Very frustrating.

There a safety switch on the seat

G'Day Jeff. I am no small motor expert. Sounds like your motor is starving for fuel. Check fuel filter then fuel supply, (old petrol will loose it's calorific value). Next check will be for foreign matter in the carby. (blocked jets or galleries). If all of that's OK, check the motor speed governing system.
Most of this is covered in your operators manual.
Cheers.Trev.

Thanks Trev. I did a quick carb clean out with some spray in cleaner, seems to have solved my issue. At least for now... I suspect fuel turned bad on me over the off season and plugged something up in there. We’ll see if it holds up or if I have to strip it all the way out and do a full chem dip.

Mine did the same thing I took wd-40 and sprayed it all over where it moves and it works fine now

Just read this answer for the same problem - worked like a charm after a WD-40 bath!

Did you find an answer? Today mine did exactly the same. Have it since brand new & this is the first problem. Has yours been fixed?

Hi Rick,
First check your owners log to see what oil is recomended, in saying that it may be best to stick to your machines factory oil speck for warranty purposes in case of any malfunction as they may deny warranty. there are many excellant oils available check the recomendations for oil grade for use at your ambient temperatures during your usage periods I personaly use a Diesel oil as they are more refined and do not lose efficiency at a constant load situation. An experience I had some time ago with a track car engine destroying bearings etc. was oil efficiency has losses at high temperature and this was the cause of the failures if you read the specs on oils it gives you the fall off in efficiency under loads and temps. If mowing in high temps and constant heavy loads I felt more comfortable with the diesel oils Those recomended for petrol and diesel, in my sons track car it did not blow another engine so I was happy that I did not have to overhaul his engine again (Suibaru wrx STI) I am a motor mechanic aged 70 with 55 years experience but I am not an expert on oils so this is my experience only. we run John deere and Kubota and have not had an engine failure, so do some more research.
Hope this helps Regards Allan

It's Briggs so a straight sae30 is fine.
Or a 5-30/40. In warmer climates or running for long continuous hours... a 10-30/40.

Bill first of all it is a safety switch that comes into play when you exit the seat it is designed so that you cannot leave with the blades engaged eg. if you fall off or become unsteady there is no risk of injury from the blades or machine movement if you are not on the seat the pto will not engage the blades so if you are trying to work the blades while you are of the seat they will not engage also you must have a reasonable RPM or the motor will stall, at idle it will stall due to the force required to start the blades.
Hope this helps
Regards Allan

Just replaced mine. From back of mower, belt goes on top pulley forward to hydrostat pulleys(2), center pulleys belt between hook tension spring to bolt (shine end . Hope this helps.

Thank you!!