Mitsubishi Express 2006-2013 Questions & Answers (page 2 of 4)

Air flow over the rad, check to see if it needs cleaning,

A couple of candidates.
First and most obvious is radiator. Over time the internal cores start to build up residue just like your arteries. This slows down their capacity to cool.
I used to pay $200 to have the top tank removed in situ and the rod put through it. Equivalent of a big nail file that cleans the scale from inside the radiator cores. Whole process can be done on a Saturday morning.
This will work for a while but never as good as a new radiator.
Last time I had this issue was about 3 months ago. Ordered a new radiator on mebay on Friday nite and it was on my doorstep on Monday arvo... $116 delivered! But wait, there's more! The new radiator has cores that are double the thickness of the original...almost. 44mm! Standard is about 25. These radiators are known as high capacity and what you should be fitting if you have aircon. You can get radiators with cores marginally thicker @ 50mm but they are double the price.
When you buy the vans from the dealers, they come with standard radiators and aircon is supplied as an aftermarket, local content accessory so it's always a job half done. Do yourself a favor and fit the high capacity radiator. Runs aircon on 40° days when everyone else is overheating.
Apart from removing the seat and an inspection plate, it's two hoses, 1 bolt and out. I've had harder jobs on Holdens and Valiants! Alright, I fibbed a bit there. You have to remove 4 nuts to remove the cowling but it's dead easy. Tip. Degrease the engine whilst radiator is out so that pressure washer does not damage your radiator finning
Even if you don't have aircon the maths rules out a reco. A brand new, high capacity radiator is half the price of cleaning a standard that will have, at best, half the cooling capacity of the aftermarket one.
Second possibility is fan clutch is losing fluid. Here's how ya check. Lift engine cover on a cold motor and start. If fan blows like a tornado for the first 60 seconds, it has fluid. If it does not blow hard when you give the engine a rev and fan hub is covered in black it has probably lost fluid. This will also cause van to overheat and is difficult to diagnose as it rarely happens. As the viscous clutch slowly loses fluid, it gradually loses the ability to engage and pull air when it needs to. If this is the case it's usually replacement of the fan clutch but depending on the make, some can be refilled with oil.

Do you have a motor with distributor ignition?

Its 2012 model
2.4l petrol

Coil packs or distributor ignition? If it has a dizzie mark the harmonic balancer with chalk where the timing notch is then run a timing light over it. Beware of the fan as it is a tricky operation to sight it up. I've nearly lost the timing light a couple of times! If the timing mark 'wanders' you have a worn coupling in the distributor drive. You can improve on the standard coupling so that the problem will never re-occur.

passenger left foot

pull unit back to passenger seat will pop off,

/questions/ce6fe22e-caff-49c6-a0d2-e01a4cd9497e

I have earlier model so this info may not help.
Get an led torch and then kneel on a rubber mat by drivers door. Up under dash above accelerator pedal MAY be a port.

Need OBD11 reader Check ebay connect and find out the code for why engine light is on, and go from there,

Similar problems in a previous thread.
Try this for a cost effective fix. Buy the bluetooth obd sender unit online and pick up all the underlying error codes. The following is a cut & paste.

https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0170/

I had a mate with similar ptoblems after taking out the O2 sensor by trying to take speed humps at speeds in excess of 70 kmh....on standard suspension!
He purchased the OBD-II plug in bluetooth sender unit that plugs into the car and left it in there permanently. Downloaded some software that came with it into his phone. Full on computer geek - engineer by qualfication. Paid $25 or something in that order for the OBD bluetooth unit and it shows up not just error codes but all sorts of info - engine temp, air inlet temp etc. Bought the gadget on mebay.
So, if you can hold out, order the diagnostic bluetooth unit to see if there are any underlying error codes (might be just an air filter for example) but try not to drive the vehicle as this may cause permanent damage to the ECU.
Try a couple of simple checks that are not going to cost ya. The problem is a perceived imbalance in the air/fuel ratio. It could be the O2 sensor but start with blowing out the air filter with compressed air. Costs ya nothin' if you have one of those 2.5hp air comps from Supacheap. Or just remove air filter and start engine to see if problem goes away. Free fix! The observation that your van struggled when you put your foot down is indicative of a blocked air filter.
Cheap place for 2nd hand sensor unit is MitsiSpares. Let us know if you need the number. Somewhere in Vic. $25 next day delivery charge with Couriers Please.
I wouldn't go ordering the O2sensor just yet. Mines done in excess of 900k and no probs. Other van has done 350k and.....no probs. More likely to be air filter or fuel pump may be losing pressure.

If not already doing so fill tank with 98.

by passengers left foot, can be pulled out to fill,

Basically remove the seats and plate they sit on
That may get you a look

Bad news.
There's a hose underneath. I think its under inlet manifolds near starter motor. Check that. A couple of makeshift ramps made from a sleeper will help. And an LED torch!
Refer to recent posts for tips on how to make safe, low cost ramps from a Bunnings sleeper.

Not sure, sensors could be playing up, or auto choke, new cat converter would let the engine breath better,

https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0170/

I had a mate with similar ptoblems after taking out the O2 sensor by trying to take speed humps at speeds in excess of 70 kmh....on standard suspension!
He purchased the OBD-II plug in bluetooth sender unit that plugs into the car and left it in there permanently. Downloaded some software that came with it into his phone. Full on computer geek - engineer by qualfication. Paid $25 or something in that order for the OBD bluetooth unit and it shows up not just error codes but all sorts of info - engine temp, air inlet temp etc. Bought the gadget on mebay.
So, if you can hold out, order the diagnostic bluetooth unit to see if there are any underlying error codes (might be just an air filter for example) but try not to drive the vehicle as this may cause permanent damage to the ECU.
Try a couple of simple checks that are not going to cost ya. The problem is a perceived imbalance in the air/fuel ratio. It could be the O2 sensor but start with blowing out the air filter with compressed air. Costs ya nothin' if you have one of those 2.5hp air comps from Supacheap. Or just remove air filter and start engine to see if problem goes away. Free fix! The observation that your van struggled when you put your foot down is indicative of a blocked air filter.
Cheap place for 2nd hand sensor unit is MitsiSpares. Let us know if you need the number. Somewhere in Vic. $25 next day delivery charge with Couriers Please.
I wouldn't go ordering the O2sensor just yet. Mines done in excess of 900k and no probs. Other van has done 350k and.....no probs. More likely to be air filter or fuel pump may be losing pressure.

Presuming it's a 2.4 litre since you haven't specified, go to any wrecker and ask for a Mitsubishi Triton motor.
Going price is $100. If you get stuck for specific parts (like tailshafts which can be one of three different lengths) I go to Mitsi Spares. Don't ask me where they are. Somewhere in Vic. 1300854858

From memory the power steering bottle is on the side of the dashboard with the driver door open. It may be low fluid but also maybe worn belt

Sorry brake fluid side if dash. May be under the drive seat

Blow out your air filter with compressed air whilst topping up that hydraulic fluid. Air filter and power steer reservoir in same location. Never have to change them (air filter elements) if you do.

Recommended interval is like 90,000 k's.
I change mine now @ 125 -150.
I didn't change one once because in my opinion it looked good. It snapped two weeks later and cost me a rebuild. The belt had done 240,000k's.
I risked it because the engine had done 750,000 at that stage and didn't seem to be quite as toey as my other 2.4L, so it was a value judgement. Didn't want to invest more money into a motor that no longer pulled like a 16 yr old. Mind you, even at that mileage it wasn't puffy or using oil so maybe I ought to have persisted. In saying that, a low klm engine from the wreckers was $100. I reco'd that, replaced clutch and radiator all up for $2.5k fitted.
Takes down RX's from the lights now and that is running larger than standard (27") wheels and tyres. I have 16" falcon wheels with 215/60 profile which increases speed and fuel economy by about 2.5% but presumably decreases acceleration slightly. Or does it?
The day I tested out those new wheels against that RX3 that was vrrrrrt vrrrrt vrrrt behind me at the lights, I let my foot slip off the clutch at 65 klm/h in second and I got rubber! Wasn't intentional - just thought the engine seemed to be revving hard but not getting anywhere before I realized I had my toe on that ultra light hydraulic clutch. Gave that bloke on the CBR honda a fright!! Didn't realize he was level pegging me on the passengers side because I thought I had left all the competition back at the lights!

I got 310,000 kms before the timing chain went but if buying price to do it, as for price to pay punch in make year and kms vans for sale and what prices come up then deduct timing

Chain?
Mine (2.4) have belts. Alan currently holds the title at 310. I got only 240.

Dunno 'bout the engine light bit. Mine are previous models. Might have something to do with the O2 sensor. Try running it on 98 for 1 tank. If no improvement seek professional advice.
Quick fix for the engine stall is to get handy with a smallish spanner (I think it's 6mm or so) and loosen off the lock nut on the idle adjustment screw. It's located on the throttle body.
These things (engine control modules) usually recalibrate themselves within 30 minutes of driving after power has been cut to the ecu, but if yours hasn't by now then adjust manually with aircon off. Idle should increase slightly when you turn aircon on.

Not sure but check your year model has obd11 connection if does you can by a obd11 reader it will tell you why the engine light is on and might tell you shy your idle is low in other words one might be the cause of the other

Get your air con pressures checked. There is a high/low pressure sensor near the condenser. If it senses too high, or to low a pressure, pump will not engage.

Get the big rod put through it for $175. Don't waste your time getting it flushed. Totally useless. There is also an option to fit a high-capacity aftermarket radiator. These have an extra row of cooling fins which means you can run your air con on 40 degree days and not cook the motor they are about $300

Its a cargo bar. For keeping loads safely secured. It is easy to remove. 2 screws on the left hand side. Then pull towards rear of vehicle and it comes out. Handy to keep in tho too.

Seat inhibitor.
Stops you putting the driver's seat fully back so you can get in that lunchtime snooze.
Pulled mine out the day I had the vans delivered and never used them since.
Room now in the centre for my stacker so it can be accessed on the fly. Even had a tv in that space at one stage.

AC removal should not affect, could be a blocked radiator, water pump issue,( ie impeller corroded, not circulating coolant), viscous fan not engaging, stuck thermostat, Are you losing coolant? how long since timing belt and water pump replacement?

Radiator. If the radiator is still in good shape, get it pulled out and clean with the big file for about $175. Do not waste your money on getting it flushed. Totally useless.
For around $300 you used to be able to replace original radiator with a high capacity type. They have like three rows of cooling fins instead of say, 2 or whatever the original is.
Handy if you tow or like to run aircon on 40° days and not cook your motor.
Note these are Sydney prices. Don't do what the last bloke did on this forum with overheating issues and wait until you get to Broome before you do something about it as it then becomes an expensive exercise.

The drive two belts you are referring to are not the timing belt. The timing belt is behind them in behind the timing cover. What makes you think it needs replacement? Maybe you just need to adjust the timing? It in not that difficult to do. if you know how. It can be done with or without a timing light. Most mechanics can do it in a couple minutes if they have a timing light. . Any good mechanic would do it for you for the minimum one hour rate.. eg.. $90 bucks. You can buy a timing light for about $100 if you want to learn how to do it yourself. Let me know. I can help. If you do need to replace the timing belt. its the labor that gets you. Minimum $1000 up to $2000 as they will bill you for arpund 8 to 10 hours... I have done it myself several times. Takes me a half day to remove and a half that to replace.. going slowly.. so make sure you get a few quotes as some mechanics really do overcharge for timing kit installation.. I was once quoted $2300 ha ha.. Did it myself on several different vehicles. have saved an arm and a leg.. Worth checking if its just in need of adjustment prior to paying for replacement costs.

Probably right, about $1000, or look up the Gates kit for your 2.4l 4G64 SOHC engine?, you can maybe buy the kit cheaper from Amazon.com, mine cost $115AUD delivered, was $300 in Aust for same kit, that's 2 belts, the timing belt and small balance shaft belt, and pulleys. You should replace the water pump at the same time, as the timing belt has to come off to get to the water pump. Its VERY important to get the oil pump/balance shaft pulley, driven off the main belt, (there are 2 balance shafts, one on each side of the engine) in the correct rotation, it can be in one of 3 rotations and still look correct but engine will vibrate your teeth out - apparently, youtube has some good videos.

it May have been removed.