Mitsubishi Express 2006-2013 Questions & Answers (page 3 of 4)

You mean the rubber bits or the whole thing?

Yes the part that the water squirts from

Sounxs like a shonky earth.

There are bulbs in the dashboard behind the front panel.. you need to remove it. to replace them. They may need replacement. the horn is likely unrelated. the pad has probably been damaged. can be bent inside. I had to remove mine to bed it back into place so it works. id check the wiring at the rear with a multimeter and or a test light to double check power is getting back there. it may be easier for you to go to auto electrician if you dont know how to check these things

These circuits all run off the same fuse. 2nd or 3rd from top left. No relay involved.
Once fuse is replaced, test your horn. This will verify power. Now switch on parkers. If fuse blows again, short is on running lights.
Most likely Suspect is a short circuit in the number plate light, caused by wire chafing. If lights continue to short, isolate the number plate Circuit. You do this by breaking the wire connection at the top of the boot. There is a connector here but you may have to use side cutters to break the security clip. If the lights no longer Short Circuit, you have found the culprit. Repair by soldering table lamp wire onto the old wire and pulling up through the boot and reconnect near the joiner.

there are two screws on each side. you have to get to the screws with a longish screw driver between bumper and light casing. if you look closely you will see them. once removed pull with a jolting action and the mounting clips will release. unfortunately you can not just change the casing on the front. you must buy two new whole units. I Actually have two available if you second hand if u have trouble finding them. I am in Cairns though.

Tighten the alternator drive belt.

Sadly the only way to get in there is to remove the instrument Cluster disconnect the plugs, and then see if you can reach in but you will likely have to remove a large part of the dash. Depending on where in the air duct the rattle is.. to remove the instrument Cluster you have to undo the screws. Put the steering wheel on lowest setting, pull off the covering part of the dash, just enough so you can disconnect the clock. then disconnect clock so you can remove the cluster cover part of the dash. After that you have to remove the screws on the cluster which mount it to the dash. Pull the cluster forwards slightly, then disconnect the plugs on the back.of the instrument Cluster carefully.. once you have all that done there is a right angle corner of the air duct on the right.. up high.. you can pry it off there.. hopefully it's something stuck in that section. Because if it's not. It means removing the rest of the dash accessible clips and pulling the pieces of duct apart at each join until you find the issue. Saying all of this. It may just be a loose screw. So check each clip and screw behind the instrument Cluster as you work. Good luck.

Follow the fuel line from fuel tank. The filter is Just past the fuel rail usually. Near the starter motor.

Thanks, found it and replaced without too much trouble

What has been done to it of late?

Solve when I change timing belt, rectify ring was opposite side
Thank you

Hi, there is no more relay, you probably have broken wire somewhere

Sounds like a short in the blinker wire to rear - that's why blinking fast. It is borderline short circuiting.
There is a gadget I use to test this. It's like a network tester. Part (a connects to the start of the circuit under test, which would be blinker wire inside cowling around steering column. Part (b, the receiver, is a probe that you put on wire to be tested to listen for a signal that is being injected by part (a.
Wire chaffing is an issue on these vans. Usually happens behind the speedo where wires cross over some sharp metal edges though. I have had this happen once before. Could not find the short, neither could auto electrician. Ran another wire from steering column back to rear blinker.

Run it on 1/2 tank of unleaded.

Plug in is above the accerator pedal on a distribution board that houses blinker can and rear window demister relay. The circuit assy is bolted to the wall. I beieve the port connector is the old type.

15 30 or 20 40... depends on age of car.. I prefer to use a higher viscosity.. the thicker the better. Otherwise they chew through the reccommended oil in no time.. 15 30 is what I was told but 20 40 works for me

Reuben replied on May 24, 2018

Reubens right the thicker oil works for my 1994 and 1999 express. I also put in that thick goop/conditioner and really noticed the bennefit on hwy and around city. The Express motor when running well always sounds to me like a well oiled "purring" sewing machine...realise this sounds wierd but had them since the eighties and no probs when oil flushed and changed (plus filter) and "gooped" also watch your water temp. faulty water pumps can cause overheating in summer and mitsu's run well being able to keep cool to med hot. I always note if my temp needle tips over the half way point I need to check water use and cooling system. This is the extent of my "services" on all expresses Ive had and had no problems with them Oh and timeing belt every 200000-250000 like "Hardball" said

Tim S replied on Jun 02, 2018

Edit

Well, not quite 250k with those timing belts.
I snapped one at 220k that cost me an engine rebuild. Still, the bore had done 750k at that stage so I'm guessing it was about time for another motor.
I now change them at 125k.

Hardball replied on Jul 05, 2018

I had a 1986 l300 express that had a bench seat but the gear shift was on the steering column. The seats were pretty thin I think the Star Wagon had a more deluxe seating/cushioning ie sprung/padded sort of like my 1999 model now anyhow the seat attatched to the lift up motor cover and from memory the covers were similar in profile...maybe a wreckers would have a 90s Star wagon bench seat you could ring around...the pick a part franchise North of Melbourne had a few...worth a call.

Put a folding bench seat in the back, like everybody else, and then put a colour TV in between the two front seats. Keeps everybody happy. You will have to run the TV off an inverter though.

Gearboxes in those are robust.
I have two SJ's, one has done 875k and the other 300k still with original oil in the gear boxes.
Your gear problems are most likely the shift cables - they get progressively heavier over time and eventually you have to bite the bullet and replace them. There are no aftermarket options so it's new or nothing. I don't use second hand unless I have to as mine are working vehicles so I try to keep them running as close to original performance as possible, which means light clutch and light shift.
New cables are about $250 for a set. Easy fix, even easier when you pay someone else to do it!
That is an easy one to diagnose. Jack up the car slightly, using a pair of long nose pliers, remove the split pin from the gear shift lever that is stuck. Now remove the cable linkage from the gear shift lever. Depress the clutch to relieve any strain on the transmission. If you can move the gear shift lever, it's the cable that is seized.
You are probably going to have to do this anyway, to be able to move the vehicle.

Men same thing here,please if any one could tell why???

mines and 03/ but is under the glove box.. passenger side.. foot level..

And can only be filled with a hose or long spout on a watering can!

Could be selector adjustment. It is inside the cab underneath the gearshift cowling. If it is not the adjustment, you are up for new cables. Don't get second hand. I think you have to buy them new and original.

Do you nean getting the key in and turning, or a long time cranking over, if its the key get a nee one cut to code, don’t copy the worn key

Ignition pod is wearing out. I have a couple of '99 vans that I have replaced the switch on. Two options.
Option 1. Contact Mitsi Spares in Vic and get them to post you another ignition pod. It is the actual switch on the back of the ignition barrell. One screw holds it on from memory.
Option 2. For about $3 on mebay get a 10 amp momentary switch and mount it next to the barrell, similar to a 'start' switch you see on modern cars. Solder the contacts of the momentary switch onto the contacts for the power in and starter out positions of the ignition barrell. Table lamp wire from Bunnings is ideal for this - it's rated at 10 amp continuous.
The reason that only the starter component of the switch goes is that it carries a fair bit of current to the starter solenoid and it arcs when you are breaking the connection. The solenoid is an electromagnet and these devices have electrical momentum - hard to initially get current to flow through them but once current is going they resist shutting it off. Added to this is the battery's willingness to continue to supply current so an electrical arc is induced which burns the contacts.