Sennheiser RS 120 II Questions & Answers (page 3 of 4)

no

There are three channels (thus the switch) and I kept it on the first one and it works fine.

...and I keep it set to the second position and it works fine.
I think it does not really matter.
Choose any position - it it works, leave it there.
If you have inexplicable interference (i.e. disturbances) cause by another signal source using the same or similar frequencies you just choose any of the other 2 channels and hopefully this solves the problem. Obviously you have to tune the headset via the TUNE wheel to that new channel to correspond with it.

Thank you so much!! I really appreciate your prompt responses to my question.

...unless somebody designs a highly sophisticated integrated circuit and offers it for sale to be added to the inner electronics of the headset, which would check e.g. for 1 min. silence and then cuts off the battery supply from the headset and reactivates it again, when signal-flow continues, I do not see a fix for this...

PS: Also read my answer to puddy below: The static white noise actually has a purpose in fault-finding:
If you do not hear what you want, but at least white noise, you know that the issue is that these is no input signal being received by the sender...

They claim it's a feature / FCC compliance thing. They have to shut down the transmitter. My complaint is that the receiver doesn't detect loss of signal and mute, it continues to blast static a max volume.

I really wish I'd returned them for a refund, since I find I hate using them. I'll just fear the next blast of loud static.

You can compensate somewhat by making sure your PC volume is maxed, and only adjust volume with the headphones. That way they won't tend to be at such high volumes. But it's so incredibly annoying, and I'm amazed they're still selling the garbage.

Did you do everything explained in the manual? E.g. plug in sender (into power and into signal source outlet --> The CORRECT signal source outlet) and used the TUNE wheel on the headset AND used the volume wheel on the headset (maybe its set down to Volume 0) and did you try the TUNE wheel on any of the 3 channels of the sender?
PS: If you mean by "very bad buzzing" the very loud static white noise, it suggests that the sender does not receive an input signal.

You can try the following:
Do you have the same problem, when you put the connector of the sender into another audio-output?
If not, the problem lies with the source, which generates the audio.
But if the same problem persists, try bending the cable from the connector to the sender carefully a little bit - if this creates sound-dropouts, this cable is broken (at the position, where you can replicate the fault, while bending it slightly).

If I understand correctly, you have 2 headsets, one connected to one TV (no echo), and another connected to another TV (echo).
I recommend swapping the headset-units (sender and receiver) between the 2 TV.
I suspect, that the echo stays with the same TV - and not with the same headset.
Reason: The only explanation I have, is that the TV with the echo sends out the signal to the headset-plug with a time-delay towards the inbuild speaker. Normally you would not notice that something is wrong, if you listen to either headset or speaker, but you would notice if you have them both turned on, which you would normally not do...
And maybe the TV with the echo is some fancy TV, where you can adjust sound-features, which as a side effect cause that delay.

The bang is usually caused because of an FM signal interference, if the engineers said that there is nothing wrong, you shouldn't worry about it. Signal interference is the main cause of these headphones bangs, hissing type noises which are very common, my headphones do this sometimes, and all I do is tune them back into the transmitter and all is well. Hope this helps.

I am not familiar with your model. I would guess that there would be a separate charger just like a phone charger

Are you sure that the headphones that you are describing are the RS120 or the RS120 II? As the only Sennheiser that are similar to the RS120's are the RS110 which are a none rechargeable model and you have to replace the batteries when they go flat.

Hi ‘Mads’, I also got a slight ‘background noise’ the other day, what I did is play around with the ‘TUNE’ sliding knob and fine-tuned that channel into the transmitter or you can change to another channel on the transmitter. I’m running my transmitter channel in the middle setting and once I fine turned it with the ‘TUNE’ turn knob it went away. You could also try to unplug the transmitter and replug it back into the mains and replace the batteries with new ones. Also, check all your connections to your TV set or wherever you have the transmitter pugged into. If that doesn’t work then you must have some sort of interference in the FM signal that is generated by your and around your environment (that wasn’t there before) check that also. If all that fails then, I would get the transmitter serviced as your unit is faulty. Hope this helps.

Just to be sure:
Changing the channel on the transmitter is one thing... - but you did not mention, if you fine-tuned the channel on the wheel below volume wheel on your headset...
Cheers, Peter K.

Yes, I have tried to fine-tune the channels. I do that every time I change the channel on the transmitter, but also every time I start using the headphones, so I'm sure to have the best possible sound. But the fine-tuning doesn't solve it.

Not familiar with your game but I can only suggest that the game itself at the point where you get the static, must issue sound in a format that your RS 120 headphones can't handle i.e. in other than Stereo format. Maybe the static is Dolby Digital (perhaps music) sound from the game. Check to see what sound formats the game uses. It also could depend on how your RS120 transmitter is connected to your sound output device. It may need a Digital to Analogue decoder which handles multiple sound source formats.

Srry not a gamer but what i do know Duncan above seems to be on right track i would only suggest adjusting bass louder the button on side of ear piece i srry could not be of help

This is a design fault in the headphones. FCC regulations require that they switch off the transmitter if there's "no signal", which they determine to be an input volume below a certain threshold for a few minutes. That's annoying enough, but they decided that the receiver unit should respond to this by blasting loud static in your ears, rather than something like a gentle "no signal" beep and silence.

I find this design flaw unforgivable. Did they even test it?

Are you asking, if the Sennheiser HDR 120 II Headset used bluetooth to transmit the signals?
If that is the question: No!
Bluetooth transmission range is only a few meters - I think between 6 and 9 - which is, why bluetooth headsets are no option for me.
This Sennheiser headset uses RF (Radio frequency), the signals of which go quite a distance and through walls...

No, you have to plug the sender and power it up as this is only an FM wireless headphone. I cant see the logic of wanting to use this device with a cord!

'YES' the batteries should be charged for 24 hours prior to first using them.

Yes. On this point:
I hardly ever use the sender-station to recharge the rechargeable batteries. I suspect that the sender-charger does not stop charging, after the batteries are recharged (I might be wrong there). However, I always use an external high-quality regulated charger, plus I swapped the supplied batteries with better ones (I like the white GODP batteries - got them on ebay).

Sorry, I only use with our TV. I have a apple laptop and I think you need to buy bluetooth headphones and pair them with laptop. Just make sure you turn bluetooth to ON position before pairing.

Firstly its the RS120II not the RS 2 ii. Secondly, you can't as these are an FM transmitted hedphone with a frequency range of 926-928 MHz, the FM transmitter is the only means of transmitting the sound to your headphones. They are NOT a Bluetooth headphone and they don't have an output plug to receive sound. If you want headphones with an internal receiver compatible with your laptop then use Bluetooth headphones, if your device/laptop supports Bluetooth.

Here are some useful tips to insure that you successfully get your set working. You'll only need to do this once to set the RS 120 II up.

(1) Plug the charger stand into the wall power, then put the batteries in the headset, let the unit charge overnight. The red charging light will come on when the headset is in the stand and go out when the headset is removed. The red light never changes to signal a charge, it’s either on when the set is in the cradle or off when they are not.

(2) Then the next day, plug the charging stand sound jacks into the "output" sound jacks of your TV, (((FYI If everything is working right, you'll always see a red light on the charging stand anytime the unit is plugged into the wall AND the headset is hanging on the stand, the green light above the charging light will come on only when the TV on and is sending sound to the unit)))

(3) Turn on your TV ≥ Go to your TV's ‘Setup Menu’ ≥ find the ‘Audio or Sound’ section ≥ find the place where you can fix the ‘Analog and/or Digital’ sound to "Fixed Output" (it may say ‘Max Output’ depending on your TV brand) and save the settings in your TV.
*If you do not do this step, the sound in your headphones will go up and down when you raise or lower your TV sound, changing this setting in your TV allows people in the room to adjust the TV speakers and will allow you to adjust your headphone set independently of each other
*YOU SHOULD SEE A GREEN LIGHT ON THE CHARGING STAND IF YOUR TV IS OUTPUTTING TO IT. If not, figure out what is connected up wrong at your TV.

(4) Take the headphones off the charger stand, turn on the head phones and adjust the sound level to about midway, put them on your head, then begin to adjust the tune dial on the headset. As you rotate the tuning dial you will hear the static sound change. Keep adjusting until you hear only the sound from the TV program you are watching and no static noise. Adjust your headset volume as needed too. If you are getting static and sound, keep trying with the tuning dial on the headset until only clear sound comes through.

After figuring out how to make these work, I'm betting all of the returns and poor ratings are related to the poor instructions on set up instructions that come with these headphones 'THEY ACTUALLY WORK GREAT' but, its not 'Rocket Science' to properly set them up. Just remember that different environments have different obstacles that restrict the FM signal.

If you or your spouse are having hearing problems and you do not like having the TV volume cranked up, these are a great way to return peace to the house. I would have given them a 5 star rating except for the weak fastening system of these headphones.

The adaptor is a universal 100V to 240V inputted power adaptor it comes from Sennheiser in two different versions, the NT9-3A (US) is the US plug that can also be bent sideways to fit the Aussie plugs or the NT9-3A (AUS) plug which is a specific Aussie plug only that comes with the RS120II to Australia. That is the only difference between the RS120 (US version) and the RS120II (AUS version) both the RS120 and 120II are exactly the same in specs.

The plug that you are after is a Sennheiser Model - SA103N-09 / Input: 100V-240V - 50-60 Hz 0.1A / Output: 9V - 0.34A 3.06W / End Plug: 9mm long x 4.5 DIA Yellow. You should be able to get an independent power adaptor with variable end pugs that will fit the Sennheiser transmitter power plug. Hope this helps.

Price i dont know as i received them as a gift but the range i have gone walking outside and gets crackly at about 30 metres

The range of the RS120II is up to 100 metres (300 feet), that is the quoted distance from the Sennheiser factory, I've tested this headphone for up to 80 meters and they work (without static and/or interference) and also through walls and different rooms and they work exceptionally well.

I will check for you.,
but first turn off tv.
Remove the RCA leads from the headphones to tv and then push them back in,
twisting to get them firmly into place.
A lot of time the connection is the problem.

Try that

It is worth noting that as your headset battery power decreases, as does it's ability to produce volume. If this isn't the case, then try going through the channels on your transmitter and readjusting the tuner on your headset as necessary.

The reason your headphones volume decreases is because the FM signal must have interference, you have to retune your headphone with the 'Tune' sliding knob and/or use the 3 settings on the front/bottom of your transmitter to fine tune the headphones again. Its got nothing to do with the batteries.