Toyota HiLux MK6 (1998-2004) Questions & Answers (page 2 of 3)

Rattling noise would be an injector or injectors. Generally quite down once they warm up.
One possibility, mechanics can test to see if they are on the way out.

0.8mm

Thank you mate !

Sorry no idea maybe contact manufacturer or check out vehicle manual which might be on line - good luck

Simple google search word for word will give you the answer from Toyota ( too many variables to answer directly ) hope this helps somewhat

Thanks will do

Hi Mud Guts,
It needs to be moving to engage 4wd.
Try this. Turn car off and have in 2wd. Turn on ignition but don't start. Press 4wd button. You should hear 2 clicks coming from the front passenger side footwell. You should also hear a metallic sliding sound coming from the rear of the transfer case. If you hear these it maybe a switch on the gear box might be faulty. There are 3 of these and can be tested with a multi meter. Google it.
If you don't hear the rod sliding at the transfer case you may need to pull off the actuator. Undo the retaining bolts and the passenger side cover of the actuator and remove worn screw that drives the shaft that goes into the transfer case. Once removing the whole actuator system take the electrical motor apart. Take a photo of the spring driven plastic/metal disc so you remember the position. My motor was full of sand and mud and had frozen. Cleaned it all out and put new o rings and it works great. there is a breather tube which is the problem. It's short and just hangs there sucking in dust and water. Run a long vacuum hose under the body to under the hood. Put a small inline fuel filter at the end and cable tie it somewhere out of the way. Or buy a diff breather kit.
I took mine to Toyota and $300 later they didn't know what the problem was and their only solution was to replace everything at the cost of $2500!!!
Hope this helps. Carl

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean.

theres the 5L and the 5L-E they are both 3 litre diesel motors except the 5L-E is EFI (electronic fuel injection)

is it seized?will the engine crank? if so thats good you dont want a seized stuffed motor,check the amount off oil in the motor,can drain oil to see what condition oil is,if it cranks over check for spark,then fuel comming into engine,oil lights are most times useless,by the time they come on the damage has already happened,if low or no oil then motor will need total rebuild.maybe luck if faulty oil sender but now it doent start is bad news,if it does crank,do a compression test on each cly to get a idea on condition,good luck

hi,i had something like that on mine,changed the fuel filter that helped,was nearly blocked.then later was flat when flooring it,would come later into a rocket after a few seconds,then would not start shortly after,turned out to be a faulty fuel pump,brought after market hi vol pump,cost less than $60 now alot better,still alittle flat spots but im not fussy,also check the map sensor is the black unit inbetween the airfilter and inlet, a friend had real problems,swapped every thing,plugs,fuel filter,air filter,coils,you name it,last quess was it,cost around $50 after market ALL FIXED. had no power,had to run slowly up towards speed,no gutts,but was ok at low sped hope this helps

Only a few bolts, I have 2001 early model, 2003/4 tub

check the viscous fan, I had one doing the same and it turned out the fan hub was u/s/ Hutch.

have the same problem but heats up after about 10-20 min of driving

The 2004 2.7 litre 3rz-fe petrol engine has a drive chain to the camshaft, the camshafts are connected by gears

We use diesel cars at my workplace and the diesel fuel needs a glow plug to heat the fuel when the temperature is cold (e.g in the mornings), It could possibly be the glow plug which is faulty, but it could be something else, please don't take my advice literally because I am not a qualified mechanic.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug

Turn your ignition on then off then on then off, waiting till glow plug light goes off each time then pump pedal once or twice then start car . This works for me maybe it'll help you too . Sounds like your glow plugs require replacing . Glenn

Best ute around, the 2003 model were the last to be built in Japan not Thailand with very brittle cheap iron, that said, there are some thing to tweak them, if around town no need at all. The cars we fall in love with give us no trouble and so far no trouble, have 2003 sr5 v6 manual petrol, while thirstly, I prefer the grunt. Had a look n feel at the new hilux mmm tinny, thin oversized, interior a few mod cons, yet found 3 annoying faults n hard to reach places and certainly no where near of cockpit feel seats as the hilux, that said, I'm putting a holden v8 in mine and it is a keeper. The other issues some say, hum, rubbish, all cars have faults if you thrash them n try to unleash the automated destructive man gene on them ... Cannot fault them, far superior build to todays throw away cars, will last forever, besides I like the smaller size and classic look, the best looker in my view, just like the spitfire, old but gold.

Possibly the catalytic converter or the starter motor / as there are so many parts on vehicles these days it might be better to take the vehicle to a Toyota Australia workshop or a mechanical repairs and servicing workshop or if the problem might be with the electrics you could try a auto electrician shop such as ultratune or kmart tyres and auto

Whether it's automatic or manual gearbox / I suggest you take the utility vehicle to a Toyota Australia workshop or a quality trustworthy honest and reliable transmission specialist to get the problem fixed

It could be the onboard computer processing unit if it's a automatic gearbox

If it the onboard computer I suggest you take the utility vehicle to a auto electrician

1800 kg with brakes, 750 kg without

Belt, 100,000 kms from memory. Dont forget to replace the idler as well.