A'van Aliner Questions & Answers

And why are they better then ?

Hi Allan B
I don't know but what I do know is the reviews stink for sometime now.
Based on our experience and the lack of service (that is being kind) you certainly wouldn't buy a 2022 or 2020 model.
Good luck.

I found a discussion on this website that talks about the water tank https://www.caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=22025.
On my Aliner, underneath the mains water connection, there is a black knob you unscrew to fill the tank.
In regards to water level status, as far as I know, the only way to tell is by guessing or get a water level monitor installed. For example, https://www.caravansplus.com.au/rv-electronics-lcd-single-water-tank-level-indicator-p-14634.html. you can also get dual gauge for water and battery. Hope this helps

It all depends what you want to do with it John. Have a look down the list of answers to previous questions. If you want more info send me a private message via my profile. Regards Dave

thanks Dave the previous comments have answered my question much appreciated

Alko torsion axles are not adjustable Stephen. Quite simply they rely on twisting bonded rubber between 2 triangular tubes and have no adjustment splines. Bigger wheels/tyres and or lifting chassis brackets are the simplest methods i have seen used. You need an Engineer's certificate also if you want to remain legal ...and insured.

Thanks I thought that would be the case

Try here Maya. https://www.avanspareparts.com.au/campers

Use a multimeter or 12v battery indicator to check battery voltage at cig type power outlet. Then if no charge, battery terminals.
Sounds like battery has died or maybe a fuse in system.

If you don't have a multimeter use anything that runs of a 12v battery. Eg. Phone charger, fan etc.

Hi Janet.
I would look at using Sikaflex 11FC or a similar polyurethane based adhesive. It is strong, waterproof, flexible and paintable and should be available through most hardware stores.
Flat 7 pin plug if wired correctly has an electric brake function for the Avan.
Cheers Dave

Thanks Dave, Sikaflex 11FC was one I had on my list to compare, good to know my research was correct. Thanks also about the 7 pin plug.
Cheers

Hi Kristy. The lack of clear on Avans is a pain. Assume it is wider. If it is a good price and in good nick with poles and ropes etc. (less than $300 or $400) I would grab it. You can always get it cut down by a tent maker. Even if they charge you a couple of hundred you will still be in front. We love our Aliner awning and except for a bit of mucking around attaching it would not be without it. A new awning as supplied by Avan was up around $1000 when I last looked.
Cheers Dave.

Hi Dave,
thanks for taking the time to respond. We’re in NZ so it’s extra hard to find Avan products and support so we’ve decided to go ahead and purchase it. We’re getting the awning + annex for $450 (barely used) so hopefully it fits otherwise we’ll sell it on to someone else who might be trying to source one for their Cruiseliner.
Thanks again,
Kristy

Hi Margo.
If you only want to keep your devices charged and maybe run a few small DC appliances you will only need enough PV (photovoltaic) solar input to keep your onboard 12v van battery charged. A 40 to 60 Watt panel is fine for this and there should be room on your front roof to mount it permanently. Unfortunately, permanent mounting limits your panel effectiveness as during summer months you may want to park your van under a shady tree and you don't want to have to move it to follow the sunpath every hour. For this reason a lot of free campers use a fold up portable panel with an extension lead which they can move around to maximize solar input. The issue with these is they can get heavy, and are vulnerable to damage and theft. You can get a lightweight semi flexible 80 W panel which are quite versatile but they can fail if handled roughly. Fold up flexible amorphous blanket type PVs are another option but they are very expensive.
You cannot connect a PV directly to your 12v battery without running it through a SCC (Solar Charge Controller) which prevents overcharging as well as back flow during the night. Many PV setups come with this small device included.
I have a 200W fold up portable PV panel (glass over the PV in an extruded aluminium frame total weight around 14kg) mounted on the front roof of our Aliner. I chose that size as i got it for the right price. In ideal conditions (full direct sun) it can run the Aliner's 3 way fridge on 12 volts. I also use a 12v car fridge from time to time. I can remove it and use it portably if I want but it is relatively heavy and cumbersome. It also adds to the weight of the roof when opening up of course.
PV Prices vary greatly. They are almost all made in China and unfortunately some well known Aussie franchises charge way too much for panels and hardware. Beware of outrageous claims made by online sellers. A typical PV panel needs to be about 0.65 meter squared in area to produce 100W. (in other words about 1 m long and 65cm wide) I purchased mine online, and run it through a $20 SCC which has an lcd display showing voltage etc and enabling me to adjust input and output settings if I want to.
Older Avans did not come with the necessary hardware so unless a previous owner has installed it you will need to get an auto electrician to wire it for you. I have a short lead from my van with an Anderson type connector which shares the Aliner power cable outlet and enables me to hook up my Solar Panel.

Hi thank you so much for detailed information I will certainly check it all out and consider all my options

Personally I'd buy 120watt & above 150 to 200 watt even better,solar blankets are very handy kings have a 200 watt blanket for $230? are they the best prob not vers $2000 redarc but prob fine,super cheap have a broad selection I see a 160watt black panel,mppt controller $ 260? that's a plug & play so with mppt should get 9/10 amps at full bore till batt starts to fill more power is good,a 40watt panel is rubbish great for irrigation controls solenoid etc, I too have a 2004 avan aliner,I'm assuming u have checked the wheel bearings,or better still put a new kit in,easy to do,I realise age may a factor be, but still,doing ones bearings a bearing race driver is fantastic,not a cold chisel iff u value ones eyes.the tyres will have a manfacture date,iff original there old and may blow or worse delaminate and smash up the wheel guard area& floor and a big hole have seen this quit a few times on older vans it's a mess,Google tyre symbols /manf date etc I've got 91h only 30kg more? So marginal to 89 but still,old tyres are not worth it, tyres are cheap,lt14 won't fit.my power is a 150 super cheap blanket & 120 fold out which I leave out when stopped,if it gets flogged i don't care

Hi MMR.
Difficult to know exactly as you haven't stated a year model, but my 2010 has a switch for the 12volt water pump above the microwave space to provide water pressure from your on board water tank when you are not connected to mains tap pressure with a hose. It will make a loud noise until the water supply line is primed and then cut out, only cutting in when you operate the sink tap and water flows. We switch it off at night so it doesn't cut in and wake us up if their is a leak in pressure.
It is important to keep your on board 12volt battery charged. In most Aliners this is done by connecting to mains 240v with your heavy duty power cord every month or so and ensuring the on-board battery charger under the bed (in my 2010 it is mounted just under the 240V power board on the floor) is plugged into the power board and switched on. This needs to be left on for a good 12 to 24 hours depending on how flat the battery is. Alternately you may have a small PV (photovoltaic) solar panel mounted on you roof which trickle charges your battery via a small electronic device called a solar controller when it is provided with light. (no good if you keep it in a dark shed or under cover).
If your on-board 12v battery is dead it will need to be replaced. This is very awkward in most Avan Aliners and Cruisers etc as it is in the back corner under the bed in a battery box which only allows it to be lifted vertically. They are also very heavy. I actually cut out an access panel in the ply bed base to enable easier removal of the battery but you still have to remove the mattress to access that.
If you have charged your battery and it still doesn't work i would take your van to an auto electrician or battery shop and get them to test it and your wiring. They may also provide an included fitting service which will mean you don't injure yourself attempting to move the thing!
The other critical switches under the bed depending on the model are the plugs and switches for the refrigerator and 240V Hot water service. I normally switch them off when the van is in storage but important to switch them on before departing. Ensure your HWS is full of water also before switching on.
There is also a 240v mains rcd switch (residual current cutout switch like in your home power box) and a 12volt fuse box below the 240v mains outlet in my 2010 model.
Avan themselves do not provide downloadable user manuals; and it appears neither does the online Avan Club. If you message me via my profile page I will see if i can organise a scanned copy for you.
Hope this helps. Cheers Dave. (NB: I do not work for or represent Avan.)

Thanks so much for this information. The van is a 2017 a liner. Would really appreciate a copy of user manual if possible, so will message via contact page.
Thanks again

Hi Stephen. If you understand that your Cruiseliner top and sides are made from 25mm thick polystyrene foam with a very thin (3mm) layer of plywood bonded with an even thinner layer of powder coated aluminium on the outside and the same very thin layer of ply with vinyl coating on the inside surface, you will understand the issue with fixing any weight bearing attachments to it.
You would also need to add the mass of the roof bars to that 37kg I guess. I have fabricated and attached 2 brackets to the outside aluminium edge extrusion on the roof of our Aliner for a roll out blind which weighs around 17kg without issue. The sure safe way to do it without fear of damage or failure would be to run independent posts off the bottom steel chassis but it then starts to get pretty complicated. I have thought about a workable solution but our 2 kayaks travel well on our tow vehicle roof with the advantage of better weight distribution, so we have kept it that way. All the best with that!

Thanks,the comprehensive answer was great.

Hi Debs. Having a quick look at these 2 links and I believe you are looking at another tow vehicle. https://www.carsguide.com.au/hyundai/kona/towing-capacity/2019
https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-advice/towing-weights-explained
even if you could scrape in legally I don't think you would enjoy the experience - especially in hilly terrain and your Kona would also suffer as a result.
Hope that helps.

Thank you. I bought a Jeep this week. Cheers D