Dometic CFX 65DZ (61L) Questions & Answers (page 2 of 3)

The two options are 240 volt and 12 volt. I don't think you will be able to plug it in to 24 volt without blowing fuses in the fridge or 12v plug. Perhaps ring Dometic and ask for their technical department for advice on that one.

Simply put... yes. Remove the partition and turn the temp down. That's it. It's also in the manual. And you would have been told the same by the retailer.

Sorry but I don't know. I only use mine as a fridge. I'm sure it would tell you if you google it, or phone BCF & ask

Your warranty is either at it's very end or expired however if you made a warranty claim before the end of expiration it doesn't really matter if you keep taking it back to get it repaired after the three years have expired for that single issue. It sounds like the main board may be faulty. Take it back to the authorised repairer and get them to test it until it no longer has this error. They are required when under warranty to ensure that the unit is functioning as new. When the power is disconnected from the fridge it should retain its settings rather than go to the coldest setting. Also, check that emergency override is not switched on. It's the little slider next to the USB port and power plug.

I am having the same problem any luck with a solution mate ? My situation is almost identical cheers dan

We had the fridge checked out and nothing was found to be wrong with it. We note that every time the power is interrupted it resets itself to -22. We were asked if some one near us has a fridge and is using WiFi to adjust their fridge which cld be interfering with ours but there is no one. We just have to make sure the power is not interupted and if it is reset the fridge to the temp you require. Good luck, if you find anything out, let us know. Cheets

The 65DZ is not a true dual zone fridge however the cooling plates are on the freezer side furthest from the compressor. If you set your freezer to around -10 the fridge side will be about 2-4 degrees. Get yourself one of those little thermometers for fridges and pop one in the fridge side to measure the desired temperature and adjust the freezer temperature to suit. Only the 95 has dual controls.

These are a poor design. If you have freezer at -10°c you might get fridge at 5°c but it will only be next to the divider. The fridge furtherest away from the freezer will be more like 8°c. If you want any chance of success u will need to run the freezer at -15°c. At temps up to 30°c ambient dualzone ok. At 35°c ambient dualzone ok provided u dont open it. Above 35°c forget using it as a dualzone. Just remember these temps quoted will be at the bottom of fridge freezer. Just under the lid will be 4-5 °c warmer. Under normal use. Temp setting -15°c
Freezer bottom -15°c
Freezer top of the basket -10 - 11°c
Fridge bottom next to divider 2°c
Fridge bottom away from divider 5°c
Fridge top of basket 6-7°c
These figures may improve slightly if u leave the fridge closed for days on end. With normal usage these are the type of figures u can expect.
Ps. When using these as s dualzone dont put room temp or refrigerated things into the freezer, it just wont cope. Enjoy your camping.

Difficult to answer. Basically if you are keeping ice cream or iceblocks frozen then take it down to about -20. But if you just want to freeze water or meat then -10 to -15 is fine. It will use a lot more battery power at these low temperatures so best not to have too much air in the freezer. Fill it up.

Thank you for your prompt response very helpful

You could turn it off and on again and see if it makes a difference but I would suggest that it probably won't change anything. If your fridge is not getting down to the very low temps like -22 which is about its limit, then I would suggest a service is in order. Perhaps give Dometic a call and find your nearest service technician for them to have a look at it for you. It could be something as simple as a thermostat or similar. The thermostats are fairly easy to replace by a tech from the CFX range onward. You have a theee year warranty on your fridge. Take in your receipt as well.

Yes
Make sure you have an in line fuse

It can as long as there is an inline fuse the same amperage as the one in the plug. But be aware you may void the warranty if damage is done using a modified cord.

You snap it backwards a little and then it will pull upward. To place it back on just put the lid on to the pins and tap each side down with your hand until it pops back in to place.

Dometic decided they wanted their image to be more global therefore they have redesigned the basic looks on the outside of the unit to reflect Dometic Waeco with a colour change as well. Generally they are the same unit and now the whole range features wifi compatibility to control the fridge from a smartphone app, which the original 95dz had anyway.

thanks Nick i was wondering this too. so the official moniker is DZ2 vs DZW ?

When the power is interrupted the temperature is reset to about -22. You can help avoid this by turning the fridge off with the power button which should retain the current settings.

Yes if you just remove the two divider sections and set it to the desired temperature you can have it as a fridge only or a freezer only. Just punch in whatever temperature you like and you are there.

Have you checked your manual for trouble shooting like the fuse? There should be one in the fridge and one in the 12v plug. Check the fridge fuse.

Yes.....

Yes absolutely. Just remove the twin dividers inside and store them safely then punch in the desired temperature and you can have it as a fridge only or a freezer only.

It may pay to get in touch with Dometic on this one as it may need to go in for a service/repair. The lights should not flash.

I have the same problem with my cfx60. Did you get a solution to the problem from domestic?

Ok so I may have an answer. My CFX95 was doing the same on the smaller compartment (I use this as a freezer). They use a magnetic switch for the light witch is mounted behind the LED interior light. The problem is the little 3 wire connector to the magnetic switch rusts out and the wires break. I assume it has done this on the freezer side due to some condensation. Easy fix just repair the wires/plug and it's all good. To get to it, just pop the lense out of the LED light, unscrew the light and remove it.....behind this you will find one screw that retains the magnetic switch. Once that screw is removed its easy to pull out the switch and wires.
Hope this helps....as I have had this problem for a while.

Your power source may not have the amperage to allow the fridge to run. Try it on 240v and see if it does the same thing. If it doesn't then the battery source is too weak to run the fridge.

high

Low when on 240v and high if hooked up to starting battery and low for second battery

This feature is only used on a battery source. It helps to avoid the fridge from draining your battery in your vehicle. A great feature. I prefer to set mine on med but if you want to ensure your battery is powerful enough to start your car then set to high just to be sure.

It sounds like you aren't getting enough power to the outlet. Many standard 12v cigarette light outlets on modern vehicles are not wired with heavy enough wire to handle the requirements of a large car fridge. Wiring to the fridge requires a minimum of 6mm cabling with a suitable fuse (20 amp) located at the battery.

Hi Mick
I cant really advise you as I haven't actually tried to do this myself...but when I bought mine the guy at the shop demonstrated removing the lid and he was brutal in his action to force it off the fridge. I decided that I wasnt going to change mine unless I found someone that really knew exactly what to do.
Regards John T.

Cheers, I actually called Waeco and I wasn't very successful. They actually said to try and if I break the hinge it would be covered under warranty. I actually just had a friend visit and got them to have a look and with one swift hit from the back on one side it popped off. The rest will be a breeze.

You are quite right in how to remove it by giving it a nudge backward to take it off. This releases the lid from the pins and then you can simply undo the pins and the plastic plates on the other side and swap it all around. It's a very handy feature. Don't hit it too hard though as you can break it. But after a successful go at it you will quickly learn how far to go. It's much easier than you think.

Hi Dan
Are you running using the 12volt plug or through a 240volt inverter? I always run mine on 12 volt and not through the 240volt inverter. It seems to perform better. Mine runs from an ArkPak and through the inverter seems to cut out after an hour or so but from the 12 volt plug will run quite well for 2 days before the ArkPak needs charging. My ArkPak is charged from the car but as I don't have an isolation switch I must be careful to unplug the ArkPak or it will feed from the tug battery. I do have solar that I can charge the ArkPak with also. I don't know if this is of any help. It also depends on your battery type and size and condition.

Make sure the solar panel is regulated and contains diodes as the solar panel can draw power from the battery at night. Also I have found that a minimum solar panel rating of at least 180w is better. If you fridge is drawing on average 5 amp, then a 120w solar panel max output is 6 amp and thats under perfect conditions. Also a minimum of 100 to 120 amp hour deep cycle battery is required for extended trips without charging from a car or 24v power source. Hope this helps.

we are now using Lifepo4 batteries, which come in either 1 battery, or 4 cells, that you join together, they guarantee 2000 electric starts, 5 times the amount lead acid will give you, you can purchase Winston 100aha for both your dual an starting battery, yes they cost a bit more, but you'd get the average of 17-22 hours out of fridge on each battery, we are using 130watt solar panel,that bought from Ebay with controller for $150 on roof rack, but I was told if I put a 2nd 130watt panel up, I'd never need to recharge my system with a generator. We are also using 12volt to 12volt or DC to DC battery chargers to charge other batteries during dark time. we are using Anderson plugs, as the stock standard 12volt plug has been known to either need cooling down at sum period an shuts down, or the plug falls out, or you blow, a fuse. The Anderson plug is live to the battery.We have 1 in the rear of Vehicle, an another in a waterproof casing next to my trailer plug, for power outside the vehicle if needed. With 1 Panel, you may get 3-4 days use, before you may have to use 1KW Generator to recharge some of your batteries, or go to a caravan park, an plug in, The Anderson plugs can be bought at jaycar or ebay, plus they can come with accessories, such as 1 -3 metre 12volt extension lead, or jumper leads with red n black brass clamps. We still carry inverters an battery chargers.