Escea DL850 Questions & Answers
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The remote to our DL series gas fire is no longer paired after a power outage while the fire was on. Previously, we followed the instructions for re-pairing the remote using the AUX button, but this time the AUX button is not working at all. We know there is power to the heater because there is a green light on inside the electrical box that the AUX button is on, and all the powerpoints work. Is there anything else we can try?
Hello Annemijn,
Please give our friendly Technical team a call or email and we will be able to troubleshoot with you to get this issue resolved.
0800 173 000 (NZ)
1800 460 832 (AU)
1800 730 140 (WA)
[email protected]
Thanks,
Escea Technical Team
I have changed the batteries in my remote, but it won’t switch on. Any tips before getting a replacement remote ?
Try to disconnect the power, wait a few minutes and do it again. If it doesn’t work call for help, the customer service is pretty good
Hi Chantelle,
You may need to give the battery terminals on the remote a clean if it doesn't switch on.
I'd try the AUX start button underneath the fascia if the fire is not responding to the remote.
Please see our D series user guide for the location of the button:
https://www.escea.com/workspace/uploads/downloads/630160_15_d-series_user_guide-1-.pdf
Feel free to give us a call if you have any issues. 0800 460 832 NZ 1800 460 832 AU 1800 730 140 WA
Logan Jackson
Technical Advisor
Escea Fireplace Company
Thank you so much!! Tried the above and it works !
Hi Chantelle,
Great to hear, happy heating!
My remote has stopped do I need a new battery?
Hi Margaret,
We recommend that you use brand new, good quality, alkaline batteries in your remote. If you have this issue and you haven't changed your batteries to new ones recently, I would recommend doing that first.
If you would like further assistance, such as using your fire with the manual start button, please email me at [email protected]
I look forward to hearing from you,
Elizabeth
Error E7 it’s coming up can’t get it going
We installed few months ago and try to start it up but no luck. Any ideas ?
Hi Nebojsa D,
Thank you for your question. Can you please email me directly at [email protected] with your details and I will contact you to help troubleshoot.
Kind Regard,
Elizabeth
My two yr old Escea DL850 works brilliantly but we cannot run it for more than 45 mins as the wall and Tv (300mm above it) both becone far too hot. Even if the TV were not there, it couldn’t possibly be smart to let the wall get hotter. Is there a solution? Cath
Hi Cath, we had a small ledge installed above the heater in order to protect the tv and it has done a good job for the past 8 years. Just be sure it’s the right material and can stand the heat too! All the best, Dorothy.
Like most linear fires these days, the heat on the wall is not coming from the heat vent but rather from the rest of the firebox hidden behind the sheeting. Installing shelves will not help with the heat you are talking about as it is coming through the wall, not up the wall if that makes sense. If installed correctly, the sheeting used should be heat proof gyprock or a sheet cement product. It doesn’t stop the wall from getting hot but at least your house won’t burn down. The user/install manual should show or discuss this, especially the fact that nothing heat sensitive like tv’s or artwork etc should be placed in this zone. Please note, I don’t work for Escea but I have twenty years experience in the fireplace industry.
When we had our DL1100 installed, we had the same problem. It's largely been fixed now that the plasterer has applied the final coat. Prior to that, there was a substantial concavity to the wall, so there was a large gap in the middle of the fire between the fascia and the gyp (per the manual, installers should get the wall right first, but the manual is treated more as a guideline over here in NZ). Some of the hot air was therefore going straight up the wall, heating both that and the TV above it. It's now cool enough that we might not bother with the ledge that Dorothy mentions.
So fix that first. We now have a 1-2mm gap, rather than a 5-10mm gap. The plasterer can use the metal frame of the firebox as a guide when skimming. Before that was done, we found using the fan boost helped, presumably as it was forcing the hot air out and away from the wall.
The manual specifically says that you do not require the heat proof sheeting (see manual, B7), so don't worry about doing that. Fix the install, and it should solve the wall heat problem. Given the clearance to the TV, which is 300mm rather than the suggested 590mm (B9), you will likely still need to install a mantle/ledge to protect the TV. B8 gives clearances/protrusions for combustible mantles; my reading of that is you can do what you like with non-combustibles, although presumably if your mantle protrudes more than they suggest in B8, you may experience more heating of the wall, as well as of the mantle itself. Certainly, the stone-product deep mantle we had above the old woodburner got quite hot underneath. The key is to get a qualified opinion other than your installers, as from here it rather looks like they might not have done a great job, and have certainly ignore minimum clearances.
https://selector.com/media/files/dl850-installation-manual-1.pdf
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