Hyundai Santa Fe Questions & Answers (page 3 of 4)

Could be a cracked pipe to the turbo, this happened to mine original part is costs 1k au unless you can get hold of a 2nd hand one

Check for a split in the pipes from the turbo to the engine or intercooler. Also check for loose clamps.

Hi Ken.i have a Auto.2011 Santa Fe.I really loved it till it just cut out while driving along i could not steer my car.Just lucky i wsnt in front of a Truck.Go onto Hyundai complaints to view the problems before you buy.Hyundai said never heard of the problem before. Ballonney.look on the site.

You don't want a manual. The clutch slave is a concentric unit inside the bell housing which means everything has to come out to replace it. Also modern clutches are basically crap compared compared to older cars they just don't last. The auto is a beauty get the auto.

I have owned 3 diesel vehicles and drive a medium sized truck regularly. The advice I was given is to drive for 30 km, at least once per week - the speed doesn't matter. Nothing to do with the filter, it's to burn off contaminants which built up in the engine.

Planned obsolescence? I feel your pain but I am not a mechanic.

Get a second hand one from wreckers.Not worth the costs involved.

Sorry Rob, I have no idea what could be causing that problem.

No idea as not that mechanical, but sounds like a fuel starvation issue or a loose electrical connection. If fuel otherwise is good, I'd side with vehicular electrics (but bumps also should casue the issue if this was the case.

Check out the blogs on Hyundai Car cutting out while driving.
My Santa Fe did the same thing.The service centre had it for 4 days used half my tank of fuel and couldnt find a problem

Hello this is because your DPF is blocked

Try disconnecting the battery then reconnecting it after a few minutes and see if this resets it.

Hi Ian
Sounds like the sensor is playing up. You can pull the fuse to the seats and see if the light continues to flash, if yes then its the control sensor for the seats. You should still be under warranty for that so go see your dealer. If not covered ask him to contact Hyundai for you regarding meeting most or some of the cost as it should last for years. Could also be the wiring loom under the seat is partially come unstuck, get them to check for you.
Good luck and all the best.
Cheers
Shane

Graham, I have had an earlier model Santa Fe 2.2 Deisel Auto on the sand to Double Island Point. It went very well cosidering I did not even let tyre pressures down.You need to turn off traction control and lock it in 4wd. It seems that it has so much power that it plows through anything, even the soft sand. I only had one problem. I found that after an extended period in soft sand that the 4wd lock light started flashing and shortly after the 4wd went back to 2wd and bogged me. I found that by turning the ignition off and restarting reset the system enabling me to reset 4wd lock and I just drove out. I could find nothing in the manual on this but I believe that the Viscous Coupling may have been getting hot and the system shut the 4wd lock off to protect it. I suggest if this happens to drive to some hard sand and shut down to give it a rest to cool down. Enjoy you beach trip. Grant

Thanks Grant and I appreciate your input although have only just read it. We are going this Sunday so will see how we go. Seems to me from all my research that if we deflate to 15 psi, turn off the traction control and lock the doffs then we shouldn't have too mAny dramas and your answer also helps if it kicks it out back into 2wd ?
Cheers
Graham

Sorry I am only familiar with the diesel ones.

we found that the sante fe does not like the E10 fuel, our service personnel advised not to use it and it was possibly the cause of the seal failing in the intake manifold, we found that it idled higher than should and fuel consumption was much greater, the scan-code readout was "lean on idle" unfortunately the seal could not be replaced and the whole intake manifold had to be replaced, this cost around $1500 plus labour and seals at the time, they had to source one from Korea at the time.
also keep an eye on the catalytic converters these are expensive to replace as the 2 front ones form the exhaust manifold, we have had all of ours fail all about 2 months apart.
other than that its a good car been to townsville, port pirire and did not miss a beat. tows our 1700kg caravan ok. have not done any off road in it so cant comment onthat, we got it for the tow ability.

How did it go / it sounds like it suffered some strain / found out that ultratune are great at diagnosis and repairs of faults

Sorry I don't know. May be cv joints, or centre diff to do with incorrect matching tyres. They must be identical all around.

Yeah I basically agree with the other answer @ I dare say there is a problem with the diff somewhere or bearings somewhere and this sounds dangerous so it's probably time to take the vehicle to a different mechanical repairs workshop or change the whole diff altogether or you might even get lucky at the vehicle wreckers shop

Have you had the universal joint looked at

Check normal things like worn tyres especially insides, ie needs a wheel alignment. If you are going to tow I would purchase a later model with the R diesel, not the first 2.2. It is fine not towing, but the R has more torque. Service records, timing belt, fuel filter, coolant, gearbox service. Our air con compressor went just after we sold our first one at 120,000km. The new owner told us about it. There was a recall about something a few years ago too, not sure what, but you could look into it. If the tyres are not all exactly the same it can kill the AWD system. It works by directing more drive to the wheels with slip, if the diameter isn't the same it will destroy the system. We didn't have to put shocks on ours at 120,000 when we sold it, but they wouldn't have lasted too much longer I suspect. Make sure no warning lights stay on when you start it up. Ours didn't have any rattles or squeeks when we sold it. Check for gravel rash around the wheel arches or damage to the plastic guards underneath, may have been off road a lot. Make sure the door locks all work with the central locking, a common problem. It has been 2 and a half years since we sold our old one so I cannot remember too much more. I hope this has been some help. Best of luck.

Thank you great help.

make sure the services have been done within 2000 of when they should have.
we have a 2006 petrol you really know when you are towing the van fuel consumption goes to hell
we were advised not use the e10 fuel - was told by service supervisor it was probably responsible for the seal failure in the intake manifold cost 1500+ to fix and around 6 week wait for parts.
catalytic converters are part of the exhaust manifold had to replace both at 1500+ each.
from Korea.
also check if the fuel pump has been replaced - ours failed the day after it was serviced, it literally fell apart in the tank...

other than these it is a comfortable vehicle to travel in, not a fully fledged 4wd,

hope this helps.

You could try to take the vehicle to a radiator specialist possibly such as natrad as they would probably have better parts to suit the vehicle

Don't have the answer for your problem, have a few others for you. Did you buy the car new, if so what warranty did you get on it? Have to ask not sure when Hyundai started offering the 5 year warranty. When did you report the problem to your Hyundai dealer service centre?

Might be torque converter damper clutch causing the vibration when the gearbox goes into lock-down mode.
Ask them to flush and replace the auto transmission fluid

Thanks all for your words of wisdom, car is out of warranty, Last night I pulled the tail shaft off the gearbox to feel the universal joint for smoothness, it has a notch in the same place when it is swiveled in either direction but no side play. Also it looks like the tail shaft has a non replaceable uni

I keep you informed on what I find, mechanic is going to check it Wednesday. But looks like a partially seized universal

Joys of buying a second hand car! Any car parts nowadays are expensive dosen't matter what the make. Its simple to research the cost yourself to see if the repairer is ripping you off or not. Remember you can always ask for a second opinion!

if you go original Hyundai stock it will cost - check out other service outlets preferably ones like ultra-tune or jax etc etc - we went to a "local"mechanic who did some work but not as directed was cheap but they replaced the wrong catalytic converter - when complained they said sorry no warranty....from what i have been told there are 3 different size services last big one cost around 900 ... be careful with the fuel filter/pump we had ours changed about 18months ago the damm thing collapsed the next day - took it back to Hyundai and they replaced it at our cost (ouch) apparently the new one was plastic and did not like the fuel and no warranty.. now have a metal one and all is good ( as per service tech)

To all you people with turbo charged diesel engines you MUST let the turbo cool down per the owners manual {find and read it !} or you will end up with problems, not just turbo charger failure. A lot of dealers fail to point this out when selling the car. Also, change the automatic transmission fluid every 30,000 km and full flush at 60,000. Its the little bits of band material that get caught in the valves that eventually cause failure.

try disconnecting the earth lead of the battery where it goes to all the body points and clean them with wet and dry so its clean and shiny also the mounting bolt/s.

we had similar problems with our old hi ace and even the NRMA was at a loss as to why, a mate suggested this and had no issues from there on in

Brian, You should do some research I came across similar problems to your from consumers in the USA, Use Google and do some research

you did not state if it was diesel or petrol

we had similar probs with our petrol version - - service could not find the problems - -nephew put his scan tool on and it reported the code with an explaniation of "lean on idle". he suggested we take the car back to service area with a can of WD40 tell them to spray around the inlet manifold and they would find a leaky seal.. and bingo they did ... cost 1500 + labor for a whole intake manifold which had to be shipped from Korea as the seal that went was a non replaceable seal.
once replace we found our fuel economy increased as well
we were told that the E10 fuel was a contributing factor to the failure

Hyundai are terrible to deal with, I have even had a dealer come out and say that to me. My advice to you would be to reasearch the isse to see if you can identify any other Hyundai's that have had similar issues. Go to the ACCC website and research your consumer rights in relation to the car, if you can prove that the issue is a Safety concern you will be entitled to a full refund or complete replacment of the vehicle. You will need to fight for your rights though as they won't simply give in. Request your car be taken to and independent agent for an evaluation of the issue.

I have just got my car back.It was at the service centre for one week.They found that there was an open circuit in the transmission inhibitor switch.So they replaced the inhibitor switch.So far there has not been a repeat of the same problem for the last 24hrs.

I haven't researched the D-Max so it would be unfair of me to comment on the performance of this vehicle. My recommendation to you would be type in a generalised search topic into google such as Isuzu d-max issues, isuzu d-max safety recalls, isuzu d-max engine problems, isuzu d-max engine specifications. Talk to the dealer and find out if the vehicle is a common rail deisel engine and if it has a high pressure fuel pump etc. There are several websites you can review to research vehicles and google should help direct you there. I did look at the D-max suvs but found them too small for my needs and that's about as far as I went with them. The other thing is be aware of your consumer rights as well when it comes to problems.

My car isn't that old. But my previous 2005 Saab needed a gearbox replacement and a new one would cost 16k. A refurbished one will cost about 8. I opted for the secondhand one at $4000 and only paid 2000 after motor warranty. Your car is still relatively new, give Hyundai a call for goodwill as a transmission shouldn't go bang within 6 years. Be mindful that kms, maintenance and usage history will be heavily scrutinised.

the timíng belt should have been changed at the 120000 service - we had problems with the fuel consumption and found that a seal in the inlet manifold had failed - service personel told us it was due to the E10 fuel we were using - we had the inlet manifold replaced, stopped using E10, we average around 600 per tank now, cant remember what we got on E10

we have a straight petrol unit - the manufacturers service dept said it was the " E10 " fuel that was causing problems
ours is an 2006 model i believe that there was a change inthe models around 2011 might like to check this out.
price wise it all depends on the internal appointments the vehicle has, so it might pay to "shop around" to guage the price
from mates experience LPG will give you expanded range combined with ordinary fuel
also i have been told LPG does not give you the power that petrol does
but you will probably loose space as you will have to relocate your spare tyre to inside the vehicle.
hope this helps