Nectre Mk2 LE Questions & Answers

No answer but further to my question ..mt Nectre is a Mark 1, fitted into existing chimney

Hi Vicki, You'll most probably need a wood heater maintenance person to repair or replace. I had my flue cleaned and it was then that the required repairs became evident so he came back with the parts needed for the repairs. As I said, once I had mine repaired properly (its probably years and years old) its gone really well. ETA: And if its repaired properly you'll likely use less wood!

Thank you Cate.
Am about to ring man who put heater in although he is no longer local nectre rep I feel he really knows what he is doing....
Last year was scratching for fuel and burned some that i knew wasn't the most appropriate......too much creosote....

This didn't happen on our fire, but the baffle itself burned away and sagged. I can only suggest getting someone with a welder to weld 2 new pins, maybe to the side of the existing pin projection. A good source of the steel is the Y-shaped temp roadsign supports that the roadies leave littered all over the verges after a road repair. This should be quite easy for a hobby welder to achieve.
Suzie

Thank you for your response, yes I am now leading towards finding someone to weld new bits on, as looking at it closely that appears to be the only option. We are on our second baffle the first was as you described. Other than this issue the fire has been great.

I have this model and find it awesome re heating a very large open kitchen/dining/living area. We got the fan option on a pedestal. Try and have a straight flu and as high as possible 2.7m ceiling or even better raked ceiling down to 2.7m. Maximises draw and flu acts as a heating medium as well as the fire box. Also consider installing a ceiling fan with a summer and winter setting (rotation option) somewhere central to the heated area as this will help distribute the rising hot air back into the living area. Very efficient and effective.

Seasoned hardwood minimises smoke and improves burn quality etc but at the end of the day there is still a little smoke associated with any fire. If flu is clean smoke usually only lingers with start up until air heats up and flu draw kicks in and usually only when you reopen the door to adjust or add timber. Re glass staying clean. Quality of wood impacts greatly on this and how fast you burn your fire. If you close the flu down the fire burns slower and regardless of wood type partially burnt carbon will end up on the glass. A great way to clean this is every 2-3 fires, get some damp kitchen paper dip it in the ash in the fire box and scrub in circles until the glass cleans up then wipe off smear with clean kitchen paper. Works a treat and is easy and quick (2min) to do just before lighting and before residue builds up too much.

Hi there, the scenario you have described is pointing at a blocked flue. Just cleaned ours after almost two winters and found it well clogged with creosote. After about ten minutes of pushing up and down a chimney brush and cleaning the debris from inside heater, the problem is gone! and have a smokeless fire again!!

no really unless you take out the flow control and grind a bit of then it will do. It was easy to do, took me only 10 mins.

No wood heaters burn all night, its a myth. Shutting down the fire box to slow combustion down only achieves a smokey, stinky, sooty fireplace and is only good for choking out the neighbourhood with smoke. Wood should be kept burning hot enough to burn the smoke too. Keeps the flu clean, less ash and most importantly less air pollution

We have had a Nectre Mega for 3 years, and have burned all night, all winter for those 3 years (9-10 hours without attention). We aren't super talented pyromaniacs either, all our neighbours manage to achieve the same outcome their various brands. You need good, seasoned hardwood, and the air inlet and the damper need to be open just a crack. Not sure of the capacity of your unit, but obviously that's a factor as well.